Finish for pens - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 09-06-2010, 09:20 PM
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Well, I know this is an old thread but I have found the CA method quite easy and would like to explain it the way I do it and it leaves a great finish. Follow these steps and you cannot go wrong. The whole process takes about 10-15 minutes.First you will need some CA Activator(spray or pump). I use pump from Woodcraft. Then you will need some "Thin" CA glue,and some paper towels and last but not least some MM pads up to 12000 grit and water in a bowl.
. OK, once your pen is finished and sanded to 600 grit,slow your lathe down to around 300-350rpm. Tare off a piece of paper towel to about the size of 6x8 piece and roll it up about the size of a pencil. Hold your paper towel under your pen and add the thin ca back and forth accross the pen for about 3-4 seconds while letting your paper towel rub lightly on the underside of the pen. This assures the glue is pretty smooth all the way accross. (Do not worry about your bushings sticking to the pen because it will come right off with no problem). Then spray 1-3 shots of activator on the pen.Within 5 seconds it will be dry and ready for a repeat coat. Do this process until you have about 5-6 coats on the pen. This whole process should take about 1 min. or so. After this process I usually take the blank off the lathe and let the blank sit and cure for about 30-45 minutes while I turn another blank for later. Then I put the first blank back on the lathe and turn the speed up to about 1800rpm.Put your MM in water and go through the grits making sure you keep your pads wet as you go.The first grit I use is the one I work back and forth for about 1 min.The rest of the grits use them for about 20-25 seconds each.Once you run through all the grits wipe off the pen with a piece of dry paper towel.By now you will have a glass like finish. If you have some "Huts" plastic polish add 1 drop to a paper towel and add this to the pen back and forth for about 15 seconds. Wipe it dry with the other end of the paper towel and your done. Assemble the finished pen and you will go through this process every time you put one on the lathe. Any questions just shoot me a PM.
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post #22 of 27 Old 09-06-2010, 11:04 PM
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It might be an old thread, but I'm always grateful for advice

Thanks, I'll try your "paper-towel-pencil" on my next pen.

Did I understand you correctly, it sounds like you drip the CA directly on the pen blank? (I've been dripping it onto the paper towel then wiping it onto the pen blank.)

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If you have some "Huts" plastic polish add 1 drop to a paper towel and add this to the pen back and forth for about 15 seconds. Wipe it dry with the other end of the paper towel and your done.
Is this the same as Hut Crystal Coat "Liquid Friction Finish" ? The bottle I've got doesn't say anything about plastic.

Thanks again --

Duncan

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post #23 of 27 Old 09-07-2010, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncsuss View Post

Is this the same as Hut Crystal Coat "Liquid Friction Finish" ? The bottle I've got doesn't say anything about plastic.
Definitely not the same thing Duncan. Hut makes a plastic polish that is used to shine acrylics, plastics, and CA finishes...You sand to about 800 or finer, then use the polish to make the plastic really shine.

The friction polish you're talking about is a shellac/wax finish for use on wood (albeit a lousy pen finish in my experience, due to the fact that it just isn't durable).
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post #24 of 27 Old 09-07-2010, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
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Definitely not the same thing Duncan. Hut makes a plastic polish that is used to shine acrylics, plastics, and CA finishes.
Thanks for this info -- looks like I have to make (yet another) trip to Woodcraft

Now I have to work out what I'm going to do with that full bottle of Hut friction polish since it's not good for pens (Guess that also goes for the 2 sticks of "friction wax" ...)

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post #25 of 27 Old 09-11-2010, 08:56 PM
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Sorry for replying so late but I've been busy trying to figure out how to get me a new shop since mine burnt. The HUT's plastic finish is used after you get the 4-6 coats of CA glue on and wet sanded to 12000 with MM. The plastic polish is to remove any scratches that the wet sanding might leave behind.
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-11-2010, 09:30 PM
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I finally found out how to get the best CA finish on my pens. I was told at a penturners meet to use two coats of thin CA to start to seal the wood. A few drops on the folded paper towel at the lowest speed, a wipe across and back the get the towel away and let it set. The put the thin up and get the medium CA out. A pea sized drop on the towel then wipe across and back and get the towel away. This takes a bit longer to set up and you may want accelerator on it. Don't spray it on right away, give it 30 to 60 seconds before you do so it doesn't cause white patches. Do maybe 5 coats the polish with micromesh through all the grits the same way you would do an acrylic pen.
I've learned not to overdo the wipe on action, lingering for another wipe or two is when the ripples get embedded in the CA.
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post #27 of 27 Old 09-12-2010, 05:17 PM
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thanks everyone!

Today I took a giant leap forward: I got the finish I want on two pens -- one after the other

I put on a couple of coats of thin CA (dripping directly onto the pen and quickly wiping across and back), then 4 coats of medium CA (pea-sized blob on a rolled paper towel, swab it quickly across and back) with a gentle mist of accelerator after a minute. Then set it to one side and do something else for an hour before going on to the wet-sanding.

I don't have the plastic polish yet, but after wet sanding with micro-mesh pads all the way through 12,000 grit I'm not sure it really needs it, I'm happy with the result.

My sincere thanks to everyone who has offered advice, hints, clues, and encouragement.

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