Face Plate Questions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Face Plate Questions

1) Has anyone tried using the double sided tape to hold a bowl? How well does it work?

2) What is the best way to remove the screw holes left by attaching the face plate?


Thanks!

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post #2 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 05:24 PM
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I have....when i first started.It holds pretty good. You could also use a scrap piece of wood...attach that to the face plate, then use CA glue and glue your blank to the scrap wood...and then just part it off after
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonderwood View Post
I have....when i first started.It holds pretty good. You could also use a scrap piece of wood...attach that to the face plate, then use CA glue and glue your blank to the scrap wood...and then just part it off after
May be a dumb question, but what removes the CA glue?

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post #4 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CivilEngineer13 View Post
May be a dumb question, but what removes the CA glue?
Don't know about being a dumb question...but Im sure a little sanding will get rid of whatever glue is left on your work piece once you part it off. I don't remember having any issues with that.( I have a chuck now).
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 06:25 PM
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I read something recenty about making spindle halves by glueing up two pieces of stock with a sheet of kraft paper (brown shopping bag paper) in between. Let it cure, turn it, when you're done, you can separate the two pieces by tapping it apart with a chisel, then the kraft paper will easily scrape / sand off.

I'd bet that this method would work well for bowls, too. You could glue up an extra bottom (if you're already laminating), or glue one to your chunk (if you're not laminating).

Haven't tried it myself, but I might have to if my new chuck doesn't get here before my impatience sets in. :P
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 06:26 PM
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That's what I used, a glue block. I always used hot glue, sometimes you could pry the glue block off or just turn it off. I did have one come loose on me though. I have a chuck now also.

Tim
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-07-2009, 10:30 PM
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I'll try to answer some of the questions. Double stick tape (cloth backed, not foam) works well for platters. It does work for bowls but you better not get a catch. I put the tape on and then clamp it for about 10 minutes. Then it holds pretty well. To get it off you put a wedge like a putty knife in between. I've also used sort of Garrot. A piece of wire with 2 handles. Just saw down the joint with this.
A paper joint works really well. I usually use newspaper because I don't have brown paper handy and it works just as well. Put glue on both pieces, put the paper inbetween and clamp. Let it dry over night. The paper extends the drying time and you can lose a bowl if you only wait an hour. it is hard to sand off. The glue clogs up the sandpaper. You can use white vinegar and a hand scraper but this is messy and slow.
CA glue is what I use most. It is Cyanoacrylate glue. Super glue is one brand and not a very good one. You can get the good stuff from woodturning suppliers or model train outlets.
I use CA with Accelorator. It will bond green wood to dry wood. I use a wasteblock that I glue to the wood and then either screw this to the faceplate or use a 4 jaw wood turning chuck to hold the wasteblock. You can sand the glue off the bottom but it's kind of slow.
The best way is to just turn the bottom of the bowl. Go to this website and look up Methods for reverse turning bowls. Then pick the method that will work for you. Feel free to ask if you have any questions about the methods. I tried to write it clearly but you never know.
http://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/htm/tips.htm
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-08-2009, 03:15 PM
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Civil,
Just to answer your second question about the screw holes. Normally if you are turning a bowl, you would screw the faceplate to what is going to end up as the top or inside of the bowl. Go ahead and shape the bottom and finish it. In doing so, if you have a chuck, you would turn a tenon on the bottom or a recess to fit your chuck. Then flip it around, take off the faceplate and shape and finish the inside, which would normally do away with the holes. Make sure you use screws which are designed to take a shear load. Don't use common drywall screws as they are too brittle. The newer style outdoor deck screws that have more of a painted look finish to them work well. One more thing, if after finishing your bowl and you want to make a final cut(s) on the bottom to get rid of the tenon, the double sided tape works well for this. I have turned a few scraps from a 2 x 6 into round blanks about an inch thick with a rounded surface to stick inside the bowl. You can screw them to your faceplate if you don't have a chuck. If you bowl is deeper, you may have to use a thicker piece of scrap. Try to match the shape of the inside of the bowl so the tape will adhere to both sides well. The only trick is to center your bowl on the blank. I use the tailcenter to help in this. You can leave the tailcenter in place to lock the bowl in and get rid of your tenon except for a small area around the tailcenter. Slide the tailcenter back and take a final cut or two to get rid of the nub. Make sure you take light cuts with a sharp tool when you are just relying on the tape to hold. You can do an awful lot with scraps, tape, tennis balls, whatever you have lying around, etc if you have a good imagination.
Mike Hawkins
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-08-2009, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike, that clears it up for me alot! I am still really new to turning.

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