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post #1 of 4 Old 11-15-2009, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Post Drying bowls

Hi,
I am new to woodturning and I am looking to find out what is the best way to dry bowls.
Thanks Marc
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post #2 of 4 Old 11-15-2009, 12:42 PM
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Welcome to the world of wood turning, there are several ways for drying out your bowls, boiling, microwave, paper bag the bowl with the shavings from the bowl, weight it and keep track of weight once no more weight lost its dry. rough turn and seal them up for about 3 month video link below..

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/vi...urning-225221/

Jeff,

"Just because your not bleeding, don't mean your turning safely"..
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post #3 of 4 Old 11-15-2009, 01:31 PM
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Well first of all, no matter what everyone tells you, you have to find your own way. Every area is different and the species we use are different.
I either turn them thin 1/2" for bigger bowls and 1/4" for small ones. Then I simply let them dry for a day or so and sand them. The really thin ones will often dry enough on the lathe to sand right there. I finish them and put them up to let them warp. Then I sand the bottom flat so it sits on the table correctly.
Many of us do what we call twice turned. Turn the bowls to approximately 10% thickness for the size of the bowl. For example a 12" bowl would be roughly 1" thick through out. Then put them up and let them dry for about 6 months depending on where you live. Then you re-turn them later. This is the only way to get perfectly round bowls.
The drying is the hard part. If you put a bowl up on a shelf in a hot garage it will most surely crack. I seal the end grain portions with Anchorseal and then store them on the floor for about a month or two. Then I'll move them up on the shelf. If you can weight them. When they stop losing weight they are ready to turn. I can never remember to do that but I rough out enough bowls than whenever I want to turn a dry bowl I always have a blank on the shelf that is dry.
Some people recommend wrapping newspaper around the outside of the bowls and then place them on a wire shelf upside down. I've tried it and it does seem to work. I just don't have the space to do that so I seal the endgrain and pile them in a corner. If it's a species that is really prone to cracking I'll seal all of the outside and the endgrain on the inside and just wait longer to re-turn it.
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post #4 of 4 Old 11-15-2009, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks that helps I will find a way that works for me.
Marc
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