dealing with a punk - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-12-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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dealing with a punk

so started turning some wood that turned out to be way punkier than I thought. Stopped turning at one point and saw Id sheared the head off a grub, what a way to go being spun around at 1000 rpm then decapitated sheash. But my question is- how to deal with punky wood... Ive heard of using thin ca glue but dont know- what to thin it with, what proportions I should use of ca and whatever else, how much to apply and how long to wait for drying and all that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! happy turnin,
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-12-2012, 04:46 PM
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No pics of the grub? Or did you eat it

When it's's rustic
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-12-2012, 05:02 PM
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you don't thin CA glue, it comes that way. You'll see it for sale and advertised as either thin, medium, or thick. Just get the thin and it will soak right into the wood. Soak the punky spots pretty good and then let it dry for awhile so it doesn't spit out at you when you start spinning the wood.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-12-2012, 05:19 PM
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Spalted wood can reach a point where just not worth turning. If wood so punky every inch needs CA toss it. Might use CA if just few punky spots. You do not thin CA use full strength.

Simply apply CA let cure and keep applying as you turn. That right stop turning, glue, wait for glue to dry before proceed to turn.

I used medium CA to salvage spalted pen blanks with success. Turned enough spalted wood and know when not to even think about putting on the lathe just looking at it.

Read about people having good luck using MinWax Wood Hardener. Cannot find product locally so no experience with it.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-12-2012, 09:58 PM
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If it is fairly large item CA can get expensive in a hurry.
Locally, Charlotte NC, has the Minwax Wood Hardener…but at about $10.50 a pint that’s about $84 a gallon. And that is cheap compared to CA.
I use regular shellac thinned 1part to 2 or 3 parts DNA. Works well but you will probably need to recoat every 1/8” or so. At least it dries quickly and is reasonably priced.

They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-13-2012, 07:56 AM
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Here are few ideas for stabilizing wood that does not involve vacuum.
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-13-2012, 02:18 PM
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I think my lacquer 50/50 with lacquer thinner. If it's really punky I use a several coats I let them dry completely. That usually works unless the wood is really bad but it does require a gentle touch with a very sharp tool to keep the tearout down.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-13-2012, 02:18 PM
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how about putting the wood (if its smaller) into one of those bags on TV that you fill with clothes and then suck the air out so it stores easier.. only put your hardner in the bag too then suck the air from the bag and hopefully pull the hardner into the wood. or get one of those food vac machines they have on the infomercial.
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