Cracks in cherry bowl - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 24 Old 08-22-2008, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitch Cholewinski View Post
The wax I referred to you can buy at Woodcraft, our Woodcraft store in Pittsburgh just closed so I will need to buy it on line. For the life of me I can't think of the name of it but tell the guy you want to seal the end grain of wet freshly cut logs. Just scrub it on both ends. It is white like paint then dries clear. Good stuff. Mitch
I really like the spiraling on this bowl. How do you do it and keep it between the lines?

I think Anchorseal is the waxy stuff you put on the ends of logs to seal them.

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post #22 of 24 Old 08-22-2008, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks foneman. I do the spralling first with a Sorby spiraling tool, then I put the lines at both ends of the spiraling. It's easy to do and I think, adds a lot to a turning. Mitch
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post #23 of 24 Old 10-06-2008, 11:18 PM
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Hey everybody, I am kinda new to woodturning and I came to this forum to ask some questions. This thread has helped a lot already! Turning blanks are somewhat hard to come by where I live so I started bidding on turning stock on Ebay. I won some decent stuff, at least for practicing. Thing is, about 60% of the blanks I won have cracked! They were all end sealed with anchorseal but still a lot of it cracked since I received it. I live in Nevada and the average relative humidity around here is about 15%! Most of the blanks I won came from the mid-west and east coast. I don't know what else I can do other than take the advise from this thread and just live with it, and buy lots of glue. Maybe I would have better luck bidding on KD blanks. How big of a gap can you fill with the heavier CA glues? Do you mix in sawdust from the turning to help fill the crack? Thanks to everyone for the advise.

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post #24 of 24 Old 10-09-2008, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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goingenoan Sorry I never answered your reply on this thread. I haven't looked at this for quite some time and didn't see your reply. Anyways welcome to turning. Seems to me your doing it the expensive way if your bidding on eBay for your blanks. When I started turning I would buy pine 2"x 12" lumber and use a compass to draw the largest circle I could on the wood ,cut on the bandsaw , cut anywhere 2 to 6 of these circles and glue together with carpenters glue. Depends on the lathe you have how big a circle you can turn. I still do this a lot to practice. Them blanks your buying on eBay that are cracking are probably wet wood that someone cut up and cut then auctioned them off. They probably left the pith in the wood instead of cutting it out so your wood is cracking. That bowl I show on this thread was cut from wet wood but not cutting out the pith so it cracked, I know this cause I am the one that did it. Anchorseal is good but is not fool proof. I anchorseal all my wood ut the longer you keep the wood the more susceptibly to cracking. I have a bunch out side that is cracked. Most times if you cut off a couple inches off both ends of the wood you can save the wood to turn. If I was you and was going to buy wood on Ebay I would ask the seller what the moisture content is, if he hesitates or doesn't know don't buy. Then buy a moisture meter and check the moisture whan you get the wood. If he was lieing you can complain to eBay. You can use sawdust and glue. I just use sawdust and carpenters glue. Mitch
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