Chuck advice, pls - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Chuck advice, pls

I'm seeking recommendations on the best headstock/tailstock setup for shaping cork fishing rod handles. The 1.5" x 0.5" cork rings will be glued on a tapered graphite composite mandrel (the rod butt section). The section of the rod with the handle is slightly longer than my lathe bed (a 1950s Craftsman), so it will have to run through the headstock or tailstock.

My lathe is a Sears Craftsman 12 INCH SWING, 36 INCHES BETWEEN CENTERS
MODEL NUMBER 113.23881 It currently has a 4-jaw independent chuck on a 0.75" spindle.

Here's a link to a vid of the process of turning a Spey rod handle.

The lathe part starts at 1.03 secs.

Thank you!
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 11:05 AM
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You lost me .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyrodder View Post
I'm seeking recommendations on the best headstock/tailstock setup for shaping cork fishing rod handles. The 1.5" x 0.5" cork rings will be glued on a tapered graphite composite mandrel (the rod butt section). The section of the rod with the handle is slightly longer than my lathe bed (a 1950s Craftsman), so it will have to run through the headstock or tailstock.

My lathe is a Sears Craftsman 12 INCH SWING, 36 INCHES BETWEEN CENTERS
MODEL NUMBER 113.23881 It currently has a 4-jaw independent chuck on a 0.75" spindle.
.
.
.
Thank you!

Is the "manderel" the actual rod?

The 3/4" spindle will limit your choices for chucks. A collect chuck would be shorter, BUT maybe not available in that thread size. Consider making you own chuck, if length is an issue? A split sleeve and a hose clamp?
Here's some DIY chucks:
https://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+...h=750&dpr=1.25

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 12:05 PM
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I believe the handle is shaped prior to mounting on the rod blank. He is using a removable mandrel to glue up the individual cork rings than mounting the mandrel in a jacobs chuck or dowel chuck on the lathe. Once shaped and sanded the mandrel is removed and the cork handle is then installed on the rod blank.

You might want to contact a couple of rod makers and ask their procedure. I’m sure some would be willing to share.

Last edited by Kerrys; 07-24-2019 at 12:10 PM.
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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I would prefer to shape the handle on the fishing rod section rather than on a mandrel.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 04:46 PM
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Just as I thought ......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyrodder View Post
I would prefer to shape the handle on the fishing rod section rather than on a mandrel.

That makes the most sense to me since removing it will be tedious and may lead to damage to the handle. However, if the mandrel is an expansion type rather than a compression or force fit type, that would be easier. If the diameter can be slightly reduced in some manner that would be a good solution. Gluing the separate discs together on a mandrel would not be as strong as gluing them to the rod itself. However, it would make replacing the handle much more difficult.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 05:11 PM
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I built custom rods for seven years. I used a Jacobs chuck in the headstock and a mandrel from one of the supply houses as Mudhole; they had the 60 degree dimple in the end to fit a live center on the tailstock. I never turned the grip on the rod- too much can go wrong (Murphy's Law) and if you are turning a long one piece blank, you need lots of room. Plus a long rod blank will whip too much on the end. Haven't looked at the video yet but I found that fine drywall screen will take the cork down in no time! You have to keep moving side to side to eliminate grooves. Make sure you have some sort of dust collection as the fine cork dust will get heavy in the air. After you get the shape, finish with 220 sandpaper. Send a PM if I can help in any way.

Here's my advice- go to www,rodbuildingforum.com and pose the question (you have to register) or do a search. Some of those builders have been in the business for over 30 years and do some outstanding work.
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Last edited by Pineknot_86; 07-24-2019 at 05:19 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 05:16 PM
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Adding- I used a piece of 1/4 inch threaded rod to glue up the rings. Wrapped the rod with Teflon tape put on each ring with Titebond III. I made a press (will post photo if you want) out of two pieces of 2x4 and put the rod in there and wiped off excess glue. Turns down easily when dry. Watched the video. Never seen it done that way. Shouldn't take two people.

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Is the "manderel" the actual rod?

The 3/4" spindle will limit your choices for chucks. A collect chuck would be shorter, BUT maybe not available in that thread size. Consider making you own chuck, if length is an issue? A split sleeve and a hose clamp?
Here's some DIY chucks:
https://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+...h=750&dpr=1.25

I had a lathe like that when I started making flutes I used a Nova G3.They have adapters for 3/4-16 thread and many other sizes.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-01-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Nova G3 Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Turner View Post
I had a lathe like that when I started making flutes I used a Nova G3.They have adapters for 3/4-16 thread and many other sizes.
Does the Nova G3 close down enough to grip a 1/4" steel mandrel?
Do you know of a backplate that will allow me to screw the G3 on a 3/4" 16TPI spindle?
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-01-2019, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyrodder View Post
Does the Nova G3 close down enough to grip a 1/4" steel mandrel?
Do you know of a backplate that will allow me to screw the G3 on a 3/4" 16TPI spindle?
Yes. The G3 will close down on a 1/4 steel mandrel. I tested it myself on a 1/4 inch drill bit. Note that the G3 is not designed to do that, and the gripping faces of the four points are flat. The faces would "grip" your mandrel along four thin lines of contact. Personally, for a 1/4 inch mandrel, I would use a Jacobs chuck (drill press type), which is designed to hold round shafts. Does your lathe accept an MT1 or MT2 taper (Morse taper 1 or 2)?

You can buy an insert version of the Nova G3 chuck. Nova makes a 3/4 inch 16 TPI insert. With the insert installed, the chuck should screw onto your lathe headstock. Be sure to buy the "insert chuck."

https://www.rockler.com/nova-g3-insert-chuck
The 3/4 x 16 TPI insert that you need is the first item in this list:
https://www.rockler.com/nova-chuck-inserts-adapters
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-03-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Can I get the same setup as the g3/adaptor in a Jacobs chuck? I need the mandrel to extend through the chuck/spindle for several inches.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-03-2019, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyrodder View Post
Can I get the same setup as the g3/adaptor in a Jacobs chuck? I need the mandrel to extend through the chuck/spindle for several inches.
A Jacobs chuck looks like the chuck on your electric drill or drill press. The back of a Jacobs chuck is not open, so your mandrel post could not go through the back.

Do I understand you correctly that you have 1/4 inch diameter mandrel post which is very long, and you want it to extend through the back of the Nova G3 chuck and its insert, through the headstock, and possibly protruding out the back of the knockout hole? Is that right?

The Nova G3 chuck has an open back. If you look at the 3/4 inch 16 TPI insert in the link I posted above, the insert has a hole through it, but I don't know the size of the hole. I don't know the size of your knockout hole, either. Hopefully all of the unknown holes are larger than the 1/4 inch mandrel you want to use.

SAFETY CONCERNS:
I have never heard of anyone operating a lathe with a rotating mandrel shaft sticking out the back of the headstock, but it doesn't sound safe to me. I doubt it is a recommended configuration in anyone's book. I would worry about hair or fabric getting caught and wrapped around the mandrel shaft. Bad things happen in an instant with power tools.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-04-2019, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post

SAFETY CONCERNS:
I have never heard of anyone operating a lathe with a rotating mandrel shaft sticking out the back of the headstock, but it doesn't sound safe to me. I doubt it is a recommended configuration in anyone's book. I would worry about hair or fabric getting caught and wrapped around the mandrel shaft. Bad things happen in an instant with power tools.
In production machine shops it is not uncommon to support a 20' long shaft with free standing steady rests and turn short finished product feeding the shaft through as needed.

Hair or fabric should not be long enough or loose enough to get caught in any machine.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-04-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
In production machine shops it is not uncommon to support a 20' long shaft with free standing steady rests and turn short finished product feeding the shaft through as needed.

Hair or fabric should not be long enough or loose enough to get caught in any machine.
I learned something new. Thanks.

I agree 100% with your comment about the danger of hair/fabric being caught in machinery. My concern was about the danger appearing in an unexpected place.
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-06-2019, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for helping me cut thru the fog, gents. On your recommendations I've ordered the Nova G3 chuck and 3/4 x 16 tpi adaptor.
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