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post #1 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Bottle Stopper Help

I know this is probably a stupid rookie question but I'm a stupid rookie so deal with it, lol!!!!

So, I'm making some stoppers. Trying to graduate from pens and move up to bigger and bigger things. I purchased the PSI stopper mandrel and I have 2 questions about using it.

Number 1, The bushing portion of the mandrel is about 15/16" I think. The stoppers I'm purchasing from SS Niles have an upper dimension of 13/16". What the best way to go about this without leaving and ugly shoulder? I know there are people who use this mandrel and the SS Niles stoppers. I was thinking just put a flat washer on before the blank and turning down to the washer but I cant find anything with a 13/16" outside diameter.

Number 2, All the reviews I read for this mandrel says the supplied drill bit is too large and instead, I should use an 11/32" bit. I drilled the 11/32" hole and put a blank on and now I cant get it off. Even if I am able to get it off without destroying it, how do I go about attaching the stopper? Its not really possible to use tools to do this without damaging either piece.

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post #2 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster
I know this is probably a stupid rookie question but I'm a stupid rookie so deal with it, lol!!!!

So, I'm making some stoppers. Trying to graduate from pens and move up to bigger and bigger things. I purchased the PSI stopper mandrel and I have 2 questions about using it.

Number 1, The bushing portion of the mandrel is about 15/16" I think. The stoppers I'm purchasing from SS Niles have an upper dimension of 13/16". What the best way to go about this without leaving and ugly shoulder? I know there are people who use this mandrel and the SS Niles stoppers. I was thinking just put a flat washer on before the blank and turning down to the washer but I cant find anything with a 13/16" outside diameter.r

Number 2, All the reviews I read for this mandrel says the supplied drill bit is too large and instead, I should use an 11/32" bit. I drilled the 11/32" hole and put a blank on and now I cant get it off. Even if I am able to get it off without destroying it, how do I go about attaching the stopper? Its not really possible to use tools to do this without damaging either piece.
I use the PSI chuck and had one problem getting the stopper off. I had to use a pair of channel locks and it didn't mess it up too bad. I retapped it and returned it to touch it up. It came off easy the next time. Are you tapping the hole or just screwing it on the chuck?
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster View Post
I know this is probably a stupid rookie question but I'm a stupid rookie so deal with it, lol!!!!

So, I'm making some stoppers. Trying to graduate from pens and move up to bigger and bigger things. I purchased the PSI stopper mandrel and I have 2 questions about using it.

Number 1, The bushing portion of the mandrel is about 15/16" I think. The stoppers I'm purchasing from SS Niles have an upper dimension of 13/16". What the best way to go about this without leaving and ugly shoulder? I know there are people who use this mandrel and the SS Niles stoppers. I was thinking just put a flat washer on before the blank and turning down to the washer but I cant find anything with a 13/16" outside diameter.

Number 2, All the reviews I read for this mandrel says the supplied drill bit is too large and instead, I should use an 11/32" bit. I drilled the 11/32" hole and put a blank on and now I cant get it off. Even if I am able to get it off without destroying it, how do I go about attaching the stopper? Its not really possible to use tools to do this without damaging either piece.

I drill mine with a size 0 bit and tap 3/8x16 for acrylics and don't tap for wood. A little paste wax on the mandrel threads will prevent the sticking.
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 04:09 PM
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Bass, as to the difference between stopper and mandrel, get a set of cheap calipers and set them to the desired size (or use a 13/16 open end wrench) and just go slow and check often when you get close.

As to drilling, I don't recall what size drill bit I use, but I drill them and thread onto mandrel. After turning and before applying finish, I back them off the mandrel a bit. If they're really tight, use a strap wrench (available at most hardware stores). I tap them before threading onto the stopper. Let me know if you need pics.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomC View Post
I use the PSI chuck and had one problem getting the stopper off. I had to use a pair of channel locks and it didn't mess it up too bad. I retapped it and returned it to touch it up. It came off easy the next time. Are you tapping the hole or just screwing it on the chuck?
Tom
I just screwed it on without tapping. I read where guys were having problems with the blanks spinning on the mandrel if they tapped before hand. I had planned to tap before putting the stopper on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whaler View Post
I drill mine with a size 0 bit and tap 3/8x16 for acrylics and don't tap for wood. A little paste wax on the mandrel threads will prevent the sticking.
Thanks for the tip on the paste wax. I actually read that before but completely forgot. I'm gonna have to put the channel locks on this one and then I'll add some wax and put it back on. Its big enough that I can still turn it down some more. Does the wax affect the epoxy when you put the stopper on? I was planning to put a dab of epoxy on the threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustfactory View Post
Bass, as to the difference between stopper and mandrel, get a set of cheap calipers and set them to the desired size (or use a 13/16 open end wrench) and just go slow and check often when you get close.

As to drilling, I don't recall what size drill bit I use, but I drill them and thread onto mandrel. After turning and before applying finish, I back them off the mandrel a bit. If they're really tight, use a strap wrench (available at most hardware stores). I tap them before threading onto the stopper. Let me know if you need pics.
I'll have to buy some calipers. I actually own a set but they are for reloading. I may try em till I get an actual woodworking set. I never thought of the strap wrench. Thats a great idea. I'll have to get one.

Thanks for the tips guys. I think you answered both my questions!!

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post #6 of 8 Old 02-12-2012, 05:52 PM
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I don't bother with any glue or epoxy on the threads when assembling. They screw on nice and snug. Also easy to get off if it doesn't sell and just turn a new top

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-14-2012, 10:45 PM
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I agree with sawdustfactory, I also don't bother with gluing or epoxy! I use the the thread on screw chuck to make my bottle stoppers, and if that little threaded metal piece ever gets stuck in the bottle stopper, I just use vise grips using a rag to protect the threads and it comes out no problem. But usually tapping beforehand will make it so that's not an issue. Good luck with you're stoppers!
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-14-2012, 11:11 PM
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I put a little "Never Tite" it's for threads on Glue Bottles Etc. to get it off I use one if those leather straps for opening Jars

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