Bottle stopper chuck - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Bottle stopper chuck

I posted some pics of the winestoppers I made but didn't share the struggle of chucking them up.

I found this setup at PennState
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BS1-SS2.html

I already have the tap and drill.
Good idea or not?

I like the idea of drilling and tapping my blank, threading it on and being able to turn and finish it all in one process.

Do you guys have better methods?

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post #2 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 09:12 AM
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I seldom turn stoppers and I do not know the value of the wood and stoppers but why would this not work just as well?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html
Yes, you would have to finish off the bottom edge prior to screwing it on but it seem you would have to do almost the same with the other. According to the spec the screw is replacable.

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post #3 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCPaladin View Post
I seldom turn stoppers and I do not know the value of the wood and stoppers but why would this not work just as well?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html
Yes, you would have to finish off the bottom edge prior to screwing it on but it seem you would have to do almost the same with the other. According to the spec the screw is replacable.
Hi NC
The stoppers have a threaded rod in the top to screw into the wood.
The setup you pictured is not the same thread as the one that's on the bottle stopper ( 3/8 x 16 )

It requires you to drill a hole, screw it on, turn your blank, then unscrew and then redrill and tap.
My setup requires a drill and tap at 3/8 x 16 and just screw it onto the lathe bolt that is the same size as the bottle stopper thread.

Thanks for the response though....

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Last edited by tcleve4911; 01-11-2012 at 09:23 AM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 09:38 AM
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Is there a reason not to use a stopper gripped in a small 4-jaw chuck?

I know it would mar the surface, but you could keep a "sacrificial stopper" to use as a chuck over and over, it would be cheaper (but only by a few dollars) than buying the special-purpose chuck.

Maybe it would be too hard to get things aligned square. What the heck, buy the chuck ... it's only $9.95, but note that several reviewers say the drill bit they supply is oversized.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html

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post #5 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:15 AM
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tc, I have used that Penn State stopper chuck for 4+ years now. It's the way to go. No need to tap the blank before chucking it, this will allow it to hold better (punky woods will strip out if tapped first). I tap them before installing the stopper.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncsuss View Post
but note that several reviewers say the drill bit they supply is oversized.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html
I saw that in the reviews.
I already have the correct drill bit so that won't be an issue...thanks Dunc.

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post #7 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustfactory View Post
tc, I have used that Penn State stopper chuck for 4+ years now. It's the way to go. No need to tap the blank before chucking it, this will allow it to hold better (punky woods will strip out if tapped first). I tap them before installing the stopper.
Hi Dusty
I'm confused...but that's not new......

"no need to tap the blank."
So do you just drill it and force it onto the bolt?...sorry if I don't understand.

Thanks for the reply............

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post #8 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 11:31 AM
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I use the woodcraft chuck but its the same principle. I've never had to use a tap, I just drill the hole in the blank and screw it on the chuck. The chuck bolt basically acts as a tap though it doesn't technically "cut" threads. Really hard woods might need a tap but I haven't run into that in the few I've done.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 11:44 AM
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What Bonanza said. Just drill and screw it onto the chuck, no pre-threading needed, the chuck will do that. If you want to be quick/brave/stupid/get a little adrenaline going; just turn it by hand to get started and then hold on while turning on the lathe, just make sure the speed is at lowest setting. DAMHIK

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #10 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:15 PM
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I have been using the PSI chuck for years and it works great. I have run into very few woods that required tapping but all acrylics need tapped.
A word of caution put a little paste wax on the mandrel threads before screwing it into the blank it makes it much easier to get it off after turning. I just picked up a couple of the Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft to use in my collet chuck as the PSI chuck won't work on my new lathe with a 1 1/4" spindle. The quality of these looks real good, PSI mandrel on the right.
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post #11 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:23 PM
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I will second Sawdust in his endorcement of the PSI mandrel. I've also used the mandrel from craft supply, but would have to probably get a better jacobs chuck, the one I got from harbor freight likes to come loose on me.

I drill and tap the hole before mounting but most of the wood I'm working with for bottle stoppers is usually dry and solid. For some soft or wet woods I will mount directly onto the mandrel which provides a much tighter hold.

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post #12 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your replies...

They helped a lot........

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post #13 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 01:58 PM
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My thought with the screw chuck was (because it stated the screw was replaceable) the threads in the chuck are probably not wood threads as in the “pin” part. Maybe someone can tell you. If so you can remove that screw and insert a bolt threaded as you need.
Or, since you have the tap and bit already, remove it and re-tap?

Being frugal I would just buy a good quality bolt, cut the head off, and hold it in a pin chuck.

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post #14 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 02:20 PM
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I use a home built pin chuck. No threads, just a 3/8" hole. Very fast.
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 04:15 PM
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Heres a bottle stopper mandrel that taps the threads as you screw the blank on. I have no experience with it but Ive been debating with myself over this one and the one from psi.

Whaler, what size collet are you putting those chucks into? I was going to get that kind but didnt think it would fit into my pen madrel collet so I passed on it.

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post #16 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 05:06 PM
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I bought one from Woodcraft that was stainless steel with 3/8 x 16 threads & fits a morse taper #2 - #846953. SS Niles also has one that will also cut threads like a tap when mounting.

http://www.torne-lignum.com/stoppers.html

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post #17 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 05:27 PM
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jlord, thats the one I was talking about in my reply but I completely forgot to post the link. Thanks!

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post #18 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whaler View Post
I have been using the PSI chuck for years and it works great. I have run into very few woods that required tapping but all acrylics need tapped.
A word of caution put a little paste wax on the mandrel threads before screwing it into the blank it makes it much easier to get it off after turning. I just picked up a couple of the Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft to use in my collet chuck as the PSI chuck won't work on my new lathe with a 1 1/4" spindle. The quality of these looks real good, PSI mandrel on the right.

+1 for all of what you use, but I always tap the wood because I had a bad experience awhile back with the threads crumbling. One other point tapping makes for a straighter thread and the stopper blank fits the stopper much straighter. I use a jacobs chuck and a cullet chuck to hold the non PSI versions. I actually made my own for the 1/4 " style with two jam nuts and a washer to seat the stopper blank.

Last edited by Bob Willing; 01-11-2012 at 07:00 PM.
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster View Post
Heres a bottle stopper mandrel that taps the threads as you screw the blank on. I have no experience with it but Ive been debating with myself over this one and the one from psi.

Whaler, what size collet are you putting those chucks into? I was going to get that kind but didnt think it would fit into my pen madrel collet so I passed on it.
The Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft fit a 3/8" collet.
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