Wooden Kitchen Ceiling help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 01-02-2011, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Wooden Kitchen Ceiling help

Ok I picked up a bunch of OAK T/G floor boards recovered from a demolition site all various widths so I had to rip off the T/G and cut them all down to 3-4'' widths then run them through a planner..... so now im left with a pile of boards and wondering what's the best way to attach them to the ceiling........if your wondering why i ripped of the T/G its because i want a smooth seamless look, no grooves/gaps in between boards... i have a jointer and plan on making these things tight as possible then im gonna finish it off with high gloss poly and crown molding. the crown will be 1.5'' lower then the ceiling and have rope light tucked in there so when turned on it will reflect up onto the ceiling around the permitter. i hope lol (dark wood with black crown)


1- what's the best way to attach them? no screws and wood plugs or wood filler, i want a clean look.....old ceiling has been removed so these boards need to attach right to the beams after i make sure there level an do what i need to if not

2- will the boards separate over time leaving gaps??im gonna leave space around the perimeter and the house is a 100yr brick row home with all new frame work on the first floor (used to have plaster on brick but i removed it all and re studded)

3-Would it help to seal the cut edges at the end of the boards ?? or maybe seal all the cut edges? maybe moisture get in there an cause problems?

Last edited by brad2010; 01-02-2011 at 02:18 PM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 01-02-2011, 02:38 PM
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The boards cut that width could expand and contract, leaving a gap around the perimeter would help. I would cut a full spline in the edges, and you could use ľ" plywood for splines. Put it together without glue, and the splines will help keep the boards level with each other. Prefinish the wood before installing. You could use a brad nailer, and any holes that need filling use a fill pencil.

If the beams are not spaced so you can install at a right angle, install purlins (like furring strips).

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post #3 of 4 Old 01-02-2011, 08:18 PM
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Put another T&G on them so you can blind nail them.

I don't care how tight you install it, it will move.
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post #4 of 4 Old 01-02-2011, 09:00 PM
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as a finisher to help with uneven age-ing. finish the back/ top side b4 installing. i also would put t&g back on them, you can do it without the bevel and still have semi seamless. although you loose some face material. a full spline would prob be easier, and work just as well.
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