Window box liner joints - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-20-2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Window box liner joints

I am building a cedar window box. No issue there. I want to also build PVC liners since it is on the second floor, and it will be easier to plant in a PVC liner box and then drop it into the window box out the window. There are companies that sell PVC window box liners... they make them out of 1/8" PVC (looks like they use thicker ends, but can't see bottom in any pictures to see fi that is thicker also).

They will be about 28" long, 9" wide, 9" high. I am going to use 3/8" PVC sheet for them. A couple joinery and construction questions I would appreciate advice on...
1) Was considering using 5/8 material for bottom and ends, and the 3/8 for sides, instead of 3/8 for everything)... giving me much more area to glue/screw sides into, since it will hold a bunch of dirt. Does it sound like this will hold up to the dirt load and transport to and from window box?
2) To join the ends, sides, bottom, I was planning to glue and screw. For glues, my list of options are WeldOn 705 (like PVC pipe cement), OSI TrimTeq (seems a little better), PVC TrimWelder (seems like premium, two part product, but expense and not available locally). is the TrimWelder overkill? OSI TrimTeq good compromise? And for screws... #8, 2-1/4 white PVC trim screw... or #7, 1-5/8 stainless steel trim screw? It wont be visible. The PVC trim screws seem to have a special thread, but 2-1/4" is way more than I need... nothing else local.

I want the liners to be water tight (except where I place drain holes that will drain directly through the cedar box). The entire window box will be 10' long... with 4 drop in liners. I want to be careful of weight also. For hanging and for carrying the liner boxes.

I would appreciate advise on best way to build these.
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post #2 of 4 Old 04-20-2019, 10:40 PM
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Hi jtech1,

I wish I could be of more help for you......Apologies in advance.

I, personally, (and probably psychologically) happen to be very pragmatic. I don't "reinvent wheels" or fix things that are not broken...per se...most often. Not to be discouraging, but you seem to be making this way more complicated than it needs to be perhaps?

This is so far outside the context from the methods I would use, (or the way its done?) that I can not really follow your approach to suggest any "good" advise to what you are "thinking" for you plan.

If you are open to perhaps "starting over" in a sense. I would suggest presenting this to the group here as a "big picture" concept, and ask question about how others would do it, or how it was done...Otherwise...???...I can say, that it looks like you have thought a lot about......"your design and approach" a planter box you wish build. As such, I would offer that you just keep doing it the best you can and see what happens?

Good Luck, and do post pictures of the outcome...

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post #3 of 4 Old 04-21-2019, 02:42 AM
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corrugated plastic, looks like corrugated cardboard, folding to make the corners, pop rivets to hold the folds in place. add a center divider or some such to keep the 28" sides from bowing, as would be required with 3/8" pvc sides. use a re-screening roller to collapse the corrugation along the fold lines.

i've made raised panel compound angle 1st floor window boxes with a frame around the top. bottoms are 1/2" hardware cloth. lined with two layers of heavy plastic sheeting that is sandwiched between the top frame and the box.
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Last edited by unburled; 04-21-2019 at 02:46 AM.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-21-2019, 03:39 AM
where's my table saw?
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A different approach .....

I have considerable experience in sheet metal bending, having made 2 complete truck bodies. So, I would be leaning in that direction myself. Once you make a paper pattern, with the fold lines, any angles involved, it's a simple matter to trace and cut them out. As to bending them up, a small sheet metal box brake could be used OR a visit to the HVAC shop where they have all the right equipment. POP rivets will work for the corners and soldering will make the seams water tight.
Sometimes just a subtle crease in the metal will stiffen it remarkably and the shop will know how that can be done.

Here's my sheet metal brake:

My first attempt at making a truck body:
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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