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What would you do

5K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  Nick Sandmann 
#1 ·
Starting to build a desk to convert our spare bedroom to also function as a home office. Design is straightforward.
 

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#8 ·
....and took it out to find....one of the corners is bowing up 😂. It's either that the wood moved since being dressed or I did not get it totally flat although I was pretty diligent. In any case, 2 options from here. 1 is I could rip the top in 1/2 and re face joint the 2 pieces and reglue. Currently it's 7/8 which I wanted but I also didn't want it curvy. 2 is to leave as is and when I attach the top to the cabinet with screws from underneath (also ensuring to allow for wood movement) this will pull down the corner flat.

Will this work? Cabinet sides will also be the 7/8 wormy maple.
 
#9 ·
Decided to build the cabinets and see if the top can be 'convinced ' to be nice. It's long enough that it will bend down with some pressure but not too much for the top or the screws. Picture attached, you can see the back edge curling up.

Is there any long term side effects of forcing a table top the way I'm planning on doing?
 

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#12 ·
It looks good. I would expect that you will be able to pull the corner down.

If it is not too far along, I would suggest a design change. Personally I would like both of the ends of the desk to look like drawers even though one is a cabinet with a door(s).

Like this, if you look close you can see the right side is 2 drawers and the left side is a door.
 

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#13 ·
Yeah, I agree fully. I've been struggling with that. My wife likes the convenience of drawers but a door needs to happen on one side at least. I like what you did on yours...but the doors are going to be simple solid with a bead moulding around the edges...it won't look right...not enough details to look believable like yours. I gotta figure it out. Thanks for the help though and the confirmation of being able to pull the top down. I'll post more pics soon.
 
#14 ·
What a guy once told me is that he took boards and cut them into thirds, took the middle board and end for ended it. He told me that if you have any warpage in the board it will work against itself and remain straight. I have tried this and it always seems to work fairly well. In your case you may be able to rip that part off and end for end it and reglue. Although that may mess up your grain pattern.
Good Luck!
 
#15 ·
Back on the desk after the upholstered bed build. Got a little work done...made some brackets to screw the top down and glued them on tonight. Do I need to also screw them in or will the glue joint be fine? They will come under some force as one corner of the top did warp up on me after glue up so it will have to be pulled down by the screws.
 

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#22 ·
I actually also don't have a 1/4 straight bit (I don't think...). 😃

I did find a tip btw that doesn't need a stopped dado. Using table saw, cut the dado all the way across but making sure it lines up to where the tails cover the edge of the drawer front! Sometimes will make your drawer shallower than you need but sometimes may work good.
 
#25 ·
Construction finished. A little bit of tweaking still required on my moulding mitres (#&!*). Sanded right now to 180...going to raise the grain and knock it down with 220.

Thanks to feedback here regarding one side having doors and the other drawers would not look right decided to have door fronts on both and put drawers behind one side (other side is for the computer).

First time using my pc dt jig...a little sloppy. Glued the dt joints which I'm not sure is right but needed to to clean up the slack. 😨

Onto finishing......
 

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