What edge joining technique is best? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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What edge joining technique is best?

I am going to be constructing a bench soon, and I need some help. I have some mdf core plywood that I may want to utilize, but it may not work. My thoughts are to use a spline as shown below. My question is, the panel is 8' long, so should I use a slot cutting bit to get the groove in the correct position the full length, or just set up a jig to run the plywood through the table saw? My next question would be, is MDF strong and stable enough to not swell at this edge? This would cause there to be a ridge that would form where the hardwood meets the ply. Any suggestions would be great. If MDF isnt going to work, I will find some veneer core plywood. Thanks.

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post #2 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 05:12 PM
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You can just use glue and clamps and cauls to secure the edging. No need for a spline or a joint bit. With the wood out at the front end, you may need some thin shims under the cauls to get good alignment.








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post #3 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=cabinetman;267750]You can just use glue and clamps and cauls to secure the edging. No need for a spline or a joint bit. With the wood out at the front end, you may need some thin shims under the cauls to get good alignment.



Thanks for the reply.

So the cauls would be used perpendicular to the edge joint? Then use shims to massage the hardwood into position for perfect alignment? The plan is to use Alder, and the edging will probably be 2 1/2" wide. I assume my best bet would be to plane the edging to the same thickness as the ply and then attempt to get it aligned nearly flush so there would be minimal sanding required. I have never really worked with Alder before, but I assume it will sand fairly easily if I have some high spots?
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkline805 View Post
I am going to be constructing a bench soon, and I need some help. I have some mdf core plywood that I may want to utilize, but it may not work. My thoughts are to use a spline as shown below. My question is, the panel is 8' long, so should I use a slot cutting bit to get the groove in the correct position the full length, or just set up a jig to run the plywood through the table saw? My next question would be, is MDF strong and stable enough to not swell at this edge? This would cause there to be a ridge that would form where the hardwood meets the ply. Any suggestions would be great. If MDF isnt going to work, I will find some veneer core plywood. Thanks.

Attachment 32763

Hi - Just for grins here's another option
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...banding_anchor

Just put the tongue on the wood, not the ply

I don't see any reason your method won't work. I'm sure some will be along to say just glue. In your situation, I wouldn't trust it, not that I don't trust the glue, I don't trust the MDF

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkline805 View Post



Thanks for the reply.

So the cauls would be used perpendicular to the edge joint? Then use shims to massage the hardwood into position for perfect alignment? The plan is to use Alder, and the edging will probably be 2 1/2" wide. I assume my best bet would be to plane the edging to the same thickness as the ply and then attempt to get it aligned nearly flush so there would be minimal sanding required. I have never really worked with Alder before, but I assume it will sand fairly easily if I have some high spots?
That's the procedure. You should get very good alignment. The glue bond will be very strong, and you will find that out after you try it.








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Last edited by cabinetman; 12-03-2011 at 05:23 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 10:55 PM
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What CMan is saying is really all the you need. The glue (TB-II or TB-III) is stronger than the wood.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-04-2011, 06:44 AM
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Hard to beat a test sample......sort of fun as well.

Glue representative pcs together.....making them long enough to validate....then after dry,smack the livin daylights out of it with a BFH.If time allows....do the same glue-up and throw the test pce out in the yard,then after a few days/week....do the hammer test.

Heck,anytime you make a glue-up or stain/paint/clear something,save some drops or scraps from the project and toss them out in the yard.No special documenting,spreadsheets,ect....nope,just throw'm in the yard and see what happens.BW

Those who say it cannot be done shouldn't interrupt the people doing it.
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-09-2011, 02:13 AM
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I like the glue-spline detail in your drawing. It is, after all, the edge of a bench and will have to support a lot of weight depending on who sits on it! Glue is strong but the weak link is the core of the MDF which can pull out if stressed too much. The spline more than doubles the glued surface area.

If you do decide to simply butt it and glue it, make sure you get full coverage on both faces.

Bret
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