Warped tabletop - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 22 Old 04-26-2013, 10:05 PM
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Are you clamping over and under - that is, gluing with one clamp under the boards and the other clamp on top of the boards and so on in a staggered pattern? This provides equal pressure across the boards and helps prevent warping and cupping.

One other thing I could think of is ..... is your table saw blade at exactly 90* to the table? Just a hair off could result in a cupping similar to barrel making where all the edges are angled.

Just some thoughts.


As for straightening the top out, I have never had any luck doing that. I go with some of the other guys on slicing the top up and re-gluing. Then flatten out the small ridges with a planer or a belt sander.

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post #22 of 22 Old 04-27-2013, 09:29 AM
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That's a good point.

Ideally a jointer fence(or saw blade) is perfectly squared. When jointing for a table top, it is valuable or important to mark the top by the sides of each board whether the face was in to the fence or out from the fence. Ensuring that each joint has an in and an out cancels any small error of the fence's vertical set that could add up to a none flat panel. It could give an angled glue line like a barrel as mentioned. It is not warped: it is coopered.. This can be used for an interesting curved door on a small cabinet.
I do clamp top and bottom. If the clamping is a bit uneven it results in one side of a joint not being properly glued often with a crack . It is bad to find a small crack on one side of a glue line instead of a small squeeze out. I do use only hardwoods. Maybe a softwood might get crushed on on edge of a joint but it seems unlikely.
The only solution is to rip, joint and re glue.
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