Tongue and Groove Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-15-2019, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Tongue and Groove Help

Hello, I'm fairly new to woodworking and I'm currently joining some boards with tongue and groove joints with a dado set (1/4"). My groove joints look fine, but when I cut the tongue, it has a convex shape to it. Any insights on what I might be doing wrong? Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-15-2019, 01:28 PM
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A sketch or photo of the problem would help.

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-15-2019, 02:48 PM
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The problem is with your dado set. Some of them just don't cut true until they have been sharpened several times.
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-15-2019, 03:28 PM
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Just exactly how are you cutting the tongue? Technique probably has something to do with it


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-15-2019, 05:59 PM
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I'm trying to imagine how you are doing it ....

Skip the intro.

Here a method using only one blade:
https://youtu.be/P3UIxSrxx9s?t=151


he also shows you how to use the dado set:
https://youtu.be/P3UIxSrxx9s?t=279
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-16-2019, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I uploaded the pictures to my profile album. Here's the link: https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...tongue-groove/

I didn't know if it had more to do with dado set or technique. I've tried to follow some different techniques I found online, but may end up just using one dado blade instead of two.

My method is to set the rip fence the distance away from the blade I need the tongue to be and then I move the edge of the board along the rip fence, gradually feeding it and moving it back until the blades have cut the tongue.

Last edited by Willis; 05-16-2019 at 09:58 AM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-16-2019, 10:27 AM
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I can’t see your pictures for some reason, but are you cutting the tongue with the board riding against the fence, or laying flat on the saw top?



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post #8 of 12 Old 05-16-2019, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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I think I may know what I'm doing wrong. When I start cutting, I start against the fence and move away from it. But instead I may need to start away from the fence and work toward it.
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-16-2019, 12:47 PM
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It sounds from what I read, and looks like from your photos, that you are free handing the stock through the saw. You do not move the stock away from the fence to make a cut, the stock is always against the fence, move the fence if you have to make subsequent cuts.
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-16-2019, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Skip the intro.

Here a method using only one blade:
https://youtu.be/P3UIxSrxx9s?t=151


he also shows you how to use the dado set:
https://youtu.be/P3UIxSrxx9s?t=279
Woodnthings, has given you the best way (in the video link) to achieve tongue and groove joints. I use a rip blade when not using a dado set because the teeth on a rip blade will leave a flat bottom. Use feather boards for consistent cuts. The outer diameter blades on a typical dado set are slightly larger in diameter than the chipper blades, and that is why your dado seems concaved...because the edge of your board was against the fence...instead of the table. If you don't have a sacrificial fence for your dado set, Use the single blade method shown in the video.

Gary
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-17-2019, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willis View Post
I think I may know what I'm doing wrong. When I start cutting, I start against the fence and move away from it. But instead I may need to start away from the fence and work toward it.
This is a very scary statement. It could result in a dangerous kickback with serious injury. Whenever you use the rip fence, your workpiece should be held against the fence throughout the cut. It should never pull away or move towards the fence during the cut.

Featherboards are often used to help hold the workpiece against the fence. Be sure the featherboard ends before the point where the blade starts cutting.

Check the alignment of the fence with the blade. They must be absolutely parallel. Usually you make the fence parallel with the miter slots. After that, make the blade parallel with the miter slots. Finally, verify that the blade and fence are parallel.
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-17-2019, 02:33 PM
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make sure the wood is fairly straight to begin with, pass through the jointer to straighten first. a sacrificial fence attached to the ts fence with partially exposed dado blade, and board laying flat on table (for tongue) is very safe.


the cut doesn't look well, make sure all chippers pieces are installed correctly. you should get a nice "square" cut out when done. fwiw I cut the groove first, and tongue to fit.
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