Titebond vs. Epoxy with Filler - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-22-2013, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Titebond vs. Epoxy with Filler

I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-22-2013, 10:06 PM
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In what type of joint?
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-22-2013, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by twkin83 View Post
I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?
You are correct in that epoxy is better for a reglue however it would be better if there was something you could do to make the joint fit better before you reglue it.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-23-2013, 04:16 AM
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what type of joint? X 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by twkin83 View Post
I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?
A mortise and tenon can be shimmed, a round dowel can be sleeved, a hole can be filled/plugged and rebored. Mixing PVA and epoxy may not work. You can heat a PVA joint with a hair dryer and it will release it's bond. Here's a good description of all the Titebond products. There are different products for loose fitting applications.
http://quality-woodworking-tools.com...ood-Glues.html

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-23-2013 at 07:42 AM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-23-2013, 04:35 AM
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Generally, it would help to see the application to offer a suggestion. Epoxy as an adhesive works best when there is a gap of sorts, as it needs some thickness to be effective. Just heating and separating the parts doesn't present the joint to be free of the existing glue. Trying to remove it will likely change whatever fit was there initially.









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post #6 of 6 Old 09-23-2013, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks and a little more info

Thanks to all for your quick responses. A little more info for the stream. I am building a cedar strip canoe and the joint I am glueing is the stem. I got a good fit on most of it, but the last 2-3 inches did not. I was working a bit blind and really should have held up - too much of a hurry. So imagine 3/4" wide X 1/4" strips, standing vertically with one side beveled to lay against the other. Glue them up, trim off the excess of one side and then work it to a nicer look with a rasp. I can get the strips to fit together with clamps - I just didn't do so the first time.
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