Thickening Stock? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thickening Stock?

Great title, eh? I suppose this is as stupid a question as the thread title sounds, but I just gotta ask...

I have a couple of nice cherry boards, one rough at 1 inch thick and one planed at same thickness, both 8+ feet l, and 5+ inches w. The planed one is reserved for table tops, probably an end table or two and the other is for skirts and whatever else may come, which brings to bear my question-

Is it unheard of (probably not) or idiotic (likely) to laminate two or more boards of decent stock face to face to get say, 2.5 to 3 inches of stock for legs instead of just getting a thicker (and shorter) board to work with?
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post #2 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 08:48 PM
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It's absolutely not a dumb question and it's absolutely an acceptable and common practice.

There was a time when it was the only thing I would consider doing for table legs as lams make for a much more stable and a stronger leg. I've since come to trust well selected lumber a bit more.

Either way, no problems. Just be sure your stock is nice and square & flat prior to glue-up.

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
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post #3 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch, Firemedic. I'll beak out the clamps.
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post #4 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 10:44 PM
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Your welcome,

btw, welcome to the forum! I hope you plan to stay a while, there are a lot of knowledgable people here and just genuinely good folks...

Oh, and I don't know if you read the fine print but advice ain't free... I expect to see pictures of the table!

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
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post #5 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 11:25 PM
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three 1" boards to make stable and strong 3" legs
I might suggest that you start with boards a little wider than your finished leg so you can trim the glued edges to size. I also make sure the glue lines on each leg (there should be very little) are facing the same way on the finished table. You probably have already thought about how you would do it but I just mentioned it anyway.. Looking forward to pictures..
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post #6 of 63 Old 02-23-2012, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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I've been reading pretty religiously for months now. Thanks. And for what its worth firemedic, I hold you responsible for my handcut dovetail habit.

Coupla weeks before any photos show up. I'm still planing.
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post #7 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Nice table Weavs! Yeah, I'm probably going to get a little freaky with trying to get the grain to hide glue lines as one would with a table top, and I'll definitely go at least three wide for room to work. I don't think the legs will be any thicker than 2-3/4 ins. square at finish, but I'm winging it so we'll see.

Thanks Guys.
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post #8 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:44 AM
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Laminating boards face to face is something I have practiced frequently. I've built a lot of entry doors and almost always laminated the stiles if not also the rails. I was careful to "crown" the lams in opposition to one another which IMHO produces a much stronger and more stable fabrication than just using one piece components.

Bret
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post #9 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:59 AM
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You can also laminate the two or three boards to get the thickness then glue a thin board 1/8 or 1/4 onto the sides to provide a face grain look on all for sides.
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post #10 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola Ranch
Laminating boards face to face is something I have practiced frequently. I've built a lot of entry doors and almost always laminated the stiles if not also the rails. I was careful to "crown" the lams in opposition to one another which IMHO produces a much stronger and more stable fabrication than just using one piece components.

Bret
When you say crown are you referring to crown of the growth rings? I've heard various opinions on this and I be curious to hear yours... after all, you are my idol

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
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post #11 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 10:44 AM
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That's what I need to do to make the posts for my staircases.

Check out some of my custom stairs
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post #12 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
When you say crown are you referring to crown of the growth rings? I've heard various opinions on this and I be curious to hear yours... after all, you are my idol

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
By crown I mean when you sight down the board, which way it bends.

Bret
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post #13 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola Ranch View Post
Laminating boards face to face is something I have practiced frequently. I've built a lot of entry doors and almost always laminated the stiles if not also the rails. I was careful to "crown" the lams in opposition to one another which IMHO produces a much stronger and more stable fabrication than just using one piece components.

Bret
Got it. I would have one of your doors without a blink. Thanks.

And to DST;

I recently saw in FWW gallery the same method where a guy took the time to veneer oak legs with the quartersawn rays exposed on all four sides. Said it was well worth the trouble and it did look great. Don't know if i'm ready for that kind of trouble yet, and I think I will be shaping the legs somewhat. A slight curve at the bottoms tapering outwards, subtly.
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post #14 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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P.S.

Reading my OP, I said "skirts". Cute. I meant "aprons". Must be something on my mind.
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post #15 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autre
P.S.

Reading my OP, I said "skirts". Cute. I meant "aprons". Must be something on my mind.
I've always heard them used interchangeably so that's probably why.
It's not wrong

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"
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post #16 of 63 Old 02-24-2012, 01:05 PM
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Another option for legs would be to use a 45-degree miter-lock router bit to glue up four strips the width of your table-leg. Kind of like the way Stickley did to get the quartersawn oak to show up on all four sides of the legs, but without all the fuss. Done correctly you don't see any glue lines, and you can orient the leg in any of the four directions when assembling. It's just a matter of ripping the four sides to width on the tablesaw, routing both edges of each on the router-table, and gluing together with rubberband clamps.

Insert witty signature line here.
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post #17 of 63 Old 02-27-2012, 10:38 PM
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If your supply of cherry is limited, you could glue up 2x2s of a secondary wood with similar movement like maple, birch or poplar and face the sides with 1/4 or 1/2 inch cherry or whatever thickness that will cover any shaping of the parts. With care in grain matching you can often avoid the 45 degree corner but that hides the joints the best.
For smaller legs a diagonal glue line is an easy glue line hide. 1 inch board would give 1.4 inch square pieces so maybe the other suggestions are better.
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post #18 of 63 Old 02-27-2012, 11:08 PM
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if you do laminate , the glue will act as a lubricant and your pieces will slide as you tighten your clamps. some guys use a small brad sticking up from one to grab the other to keep them from sliding. personally i wouldnt laminate - i would buy thicker stock for a better look.

just my 2 cents worth

build it right or not at all
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post #19 of 63 Old 02-28-2012, 02:31 AM
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BTW, taking your OP literally, you can also stir in a little corn starch to "thicken the stock". Ha!, I know, it's late.

Bret
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post #20 of 63 Old 02-28-2012, 06:49 AM
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I do laminated legs too. It is probably common sense, but I'll mention it anyways, don't cut to size them laminate. Laminate them cut to size, that way you dont have to worry about the clamps sliding the wood pieces around. Also, make sure to pay careful attention to the direction of the grain when you lam. Try to match them to look natural, and also b/c it can be a PITA in the planer, jointer, handplane if you have two opposite grain directions. DAMHIK
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