Tenons on ends of long board - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 3Likes
  • 1 Post By Chris Curl
  • 2 Post By woodnthings
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 08-14-2017, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Milford, MA, USA
Posts: 3
View Broadway Bob's Photo Album My Photos
Tenons on ends of long board

I've always had trouble with this over the years - any advice on a good way to cut tenons on the ends of a 4-5ft. long board? On the router table, there is too much overhang and leverage making it hard to keep the board straight while routing. Hand routing would work, but it's tricky to match the shoulders on either side of the tenon (at least it is for me).

I once made up a jig that was for a specific project which allowed me to use a router with a guide bushing, but the jig was sized for just that particular piece for that project. It's a lot of trouble to make one up if the project has several different sized boards (widths) needing tenons.

Is there such a thing as an adjustable jig of some sort? Any other methods you have used? Thanks.

Bob
Broadway Bob is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 12:04 AM
Master firewood maker
 
Chris Curl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,973
View Chris Curl's Photo Album My Photos
Hand saw and chisel. Done in under 5 minutes.

... turning perfectly good wood into firewood every day ... :smile3:

Last edited by Chris Curl; 08-15-2017 at 12:06 AM.
Chris Curl is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 06:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 12,375
View GeorgeC's Photo Album My Photos
I would do the cutting on a board that short on my table saw with a dado set.

George
GeorgeC is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Milford, MA, USA
Posts: 3
View Broadway Bob's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks, Chris, but I guess I should have mentioned...the boards are usually 4-6 inches in width and 3/4 inches thick.
Broadway Bob is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Milford, MA, USA
Posts: 3
View Broadway Bob's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks, George. I didn't think of this since my table saw has only 36" clearance to the left of the blade, but I could put the fence on the left side of the blade...duh! I guess I had an old age brain cramp!

Bob
Broadway Bob is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 07:44 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
You might make something to sit on a saw horse to set next to the router table to give you the right height to hold the wood up. If your router table is homemade you might put a dado in the top of it to insert a miter gauge off a table saw. On the miter gauge you could put a hold down to help you keep the wood down. You could also cut tenons on a table saw using a dado blade. It would be necessary to have your wood a consistent thickness though or your tenons would vary in thickness.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 09:02 AM
Senior Member
 
IowaDave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: SE Iowa
Posts: 125
View IowaDave's Photo Album My Photos
FWIW, I recently made tenons on the end of a table top very similar in dimension to what you described and I did it with a hand held router and it turned out very well. I placed the table top on a bench, secured it and then clamped a guide across the width of the table to use as a guide for the router so I had a precise edge.

Once I was done with the tenons, I mortised the bread board ends on my router table. It took a little bit of fine measuring to make sure that the tenons fit the mortise well, but it wasn't too hard and I ended up with a perfect fit that I was happy with.
IowaDave is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 09:07 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,302
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
I use the bandsaw ...now.

Yes, that's a problem holding the long board and making a cut... and it depends on the length of the tenon. A RAS with a dado set will allow you to see the progress from above AND the long board will rest nicely along the back fence. On a table saw, unless you have made an auxiliary miter fence which extends the face, it will be difficult to keep the board in constant registration... it will what to wobble unless clamped down Then you can use a stop block either on the rip fence or on the extended fence on the miter gauge.

I now use the bandsaw with2 different fence stops, one for the length of the tenon, the other for the depth of the shoulder cut. All your boards must be identical in dimension and a practice piece or two will make certain yuu have the tenon the correct width and centered.

Now for a question.
Which boards are you attempting to make the tenons on?
The table top ends..?
Or the apron ends ...?
The process would be different IF the top is all ready glued up.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-15-2017 at 10:46 AM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #9 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 10:16 AM
Master firewood maker
 
Chris Curl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,973
View Chris Curl's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadway Bob View Post
Thanks, Chris, but I guess I should have mentioned...the boards are usually 4-6 inches in width and 3/4 inches thick.
I don't understand how that makes it more difficult or time consuming ... ? All this time talking about it ... it could be done by now. :)
amckenzie4 likes this.

... turning perfectly good wood into firewood every day ... :smile3:
Chris Curl is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 03:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 12,375
View GeorgeC's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadway Bob View Post
Thanks, George. I didn't think of this since my table saw has only 36" clearance to the left of the blade, but I could put the fence on the left side of the blade...duh! I guess I had an old age brain cramp!

Bob
You do not even need a fence to cut tenons.

George
GeorgeC is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 07:35 PM
Village Idiot
 
epicfail48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Springfield MO
Posts: 4,934
View epicfail48's Photo Album My Photos
Table saw with a dado stack is the way I'd do it too. I've done the same thing on pieces 4-5 feet in length, its not horribly difficult to keep the piece supported. Use the fence to set the length of the tenon and push the piece with a miter gauge or a sled, the sled being the preferred option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
I don't understand how that makes it more difficult or time consuming ... ? All this time talking about it ... it could be done by now. :)
You forgot to factor in the time and effort needed to become proficient enough with hand tools to actual cut the tenons, rather than created scrap. We've had this conversation in another thread, just because it would take you some arbitrarily small amount of time to do the job with hand tools doesn't make that method superior or even appropriate to everybody. Myself, for example, I'm fairly skilled with hand tools, but I wouldn't be cutting tenons by hand. Not because I'm incapable of it, but because I don't own a hand saw. No need when I have a table saw, band saw, circular saw, router, router table, etc...

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
epicfail48 is offline  
post #12 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 08:05 PM
Master firewood maker
 
Chris Curl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,973
View Chris Curl's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
Table saw with a dado stack is the way I'd do it too. I've done the same thing on pieces 4-5 feet in length, its not horribly difficult to keep the piece supported. Use the fence to set the length of the tenon and push the piece with a miter gauge or a sled, the sled being the preferred option.



You forgot to factor in the time and effort needed to become proficient enough with hand tools to actual cut the tenons, rather than created scrap. We've had this conversation in another thread, just because it would take you some arbitrarily small amount of time to do the job with hand tools doesn't make that method superior or even appropriate to everybody. Myself, for example, I'm fairly skilled with hand tools, but I wouldn't be cutting tenons by hand. Not because I'm incapable of it, but because I don't own a hand saw. No need when I have a table saw, band saw, circular saw, router, router table, etc...
The thing is, I am not an old hand at this at all, actually, I consider myself a novice. And I don't really have a good saw or good chisels; they are off-the-shelf stuff from Home Depot. It's just that it's really not that hard to do, and it's easy to learn how to do it. After doing only a couple, you realize that it is a straightforward process, and hard to mess up. With a machine, you can mess it up really bad really fast. Not so with hand tools.. To each his own. I would rather spend my time cutting the tendons than setting up machines and putting on earplugs, face masks and protective glasses and doing test cuts.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk

... turning perfectly good wood into firewood every day ... :smile3:

Last edited by Chris Curl; 08-15-2017 at 08:11 PM.
Chris Curl is offline  
post #13 of 13 Old 08-15-2017, 08:12 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,302
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Please don't cut your tendons

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
........ Not so with hand tools.. To each his own. I would rather spend my time cutting the tendons than setting up machines and putting on earplugs, face masks and protective glasses and doing test cuts.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
I know you meant tenons, but a lot of folks don't call them by their proper term ...just sayin'
amckenzie4 and Chris Curl like this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
That ONE board allpurpose General Woodworking Discussion 6 05-28-2017 07:36 PM
How to make a board Brian(J) Off Topic 2 12-13-2016 02:25 PM
ripping a 45 dregree angle on 10 feet long board Steve_ General Woodworking Discussion 10 05-03-2016 09:00 PM
Long Board 1/16th removal jig OnealWoodworking Tips, Tricks, & Homemade Jigs 7 08-26-2015 09:35 PM
Bread board ends joedain Joinery 10 08-21-2015 08:07 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome