Table saw accuracy - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 47 Old 09-07-2020, 08:16 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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This title got me to thinking .......

Why not have a "powered" fence like a milling machine's "X" axis.
It could be manually set with a hand crank OR driven with a servo motor to precisely the exact same dimension every time. Talk about accuracy!


Wait ..... there must be such a saw in industry where time is money and accuracy is paramount. Sure enough, Grizzly has one. All I need is the 15 K, 3 phase wiring and a bigger shop.....
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...NC-Fence/G0853


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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-07-2020 at 08:18 PM.
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post #42 of 47 Old 09-08-2020, 01:12 AM
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Wow! You really went all out with that video. The only way it could have been clearer would have been to teleport me to your shop for a hands-on lesson.

Your measurement to the end of the bolt is the limiting factor for having sufficient room to get into my saw's "parking place". So 62" rails (minus 1" stop bolt) would give me 62 3/4" width overall, counting the bolt on the end of the positioner, leaving 1 1/4" of clearance to maneuver into the 64" space on the wall. 62 3/4" overall = 42 1/2" right of the blade, giving me a max 29" right-side cut width.

To describe my situation, one picture is worth 1,000 words:
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post #43 of 47 Old 09-08-2020, 01:34 AM
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Using a 28" x 21" router table on the right, which is the only place it can go, would require, at a minimum, re-positioning the TS-LS base 20" to the left in order to gain access to the router table, correct? Or reversing the fence system if I need a router fence. That would be something of a nuisance, but doable.

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post #44 of 47 Old 09-08-2020, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucet999 View Post
Using a 28" x 21" router table on the right, which is the only place it can go, would require, at a minimum, re-positioning the TS-LS base 20" to the left in order to gain access to the router table, correct? Or reversing the fence system if I need a router fence. That would be something of a nuisance, but doable.
I'm glad the video helped. Incra doesn't do a great job of describing their products. There are a lot of good videos on youtube that go over the functionality of the system but I couldn't find any that got into details on the measurements.

Looking at the picture it appears that you would have room to use the router table with the incra positioner set to the right of it. If that's a 22' wide base with the router mounted offset to the left, I'd guess that you have more than 12" from the router spindle to the right side of the table. If you can can extend the positioner base a few inches past your router table you should have enough room for the normal incra fence along with the wonder fence (for your router). The wonder fence attaches to the incra table saw fence and adds another 3 3/8" (see picture). That can be purchased at a discount with the joinery package or it can be added later.

The only drawback with using the incra system for your router is that you can't work from the end of the router table, you end up working on the left side of the fence. You can see in the picture below that I rotated my router lift 180 degree so the controls are on the left side. It's not as comfortable as working off the end of the router table but with the additional control that comes from the fence and slide it has helped improve my routing accuracy. Apart from that the dust collection is very good.

One thing I forgot to mention is the long lead time for these LS/TS systems. The website shows a 15 to 18 week estimated lead time. That was about what it took for mine to come in. I ordered it in early April and it arrived at the end of July. That was right in the middle of the COVID feed home improvement project rush so perhaps the lead time might be better for you.

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post #45 of 47 Old 09-08-2020, 10:26 AM
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"Looking at the picture it appears that you would have room to use the router table with the incra positioner set to the right of it. If that's a 22' wide base with the router mounted offset to the left, I'd guess that you have more than 12" from the router spindle to the right side of the table."

Thanks again for the video and for this latest response.

No, my homemade router table is 27" x 15", flush with the back rail, and I find it convenient to work from the end rather than from the front. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to move the base to the left until the fence reaches the left side of the saw table, leaving the insert of an Incra 28 x 21 router table and about 12" of table clear to work from the end when using bearing bits.

For router fence work, I would have to rotate the whole fence system. Not a big deal, since I presently have to take time to mount and clamp my crude shop-made fence adapter to my T-fence anyway.

That lift is fairly pricey, BTW. Do you find it substantially better than reaching underneath for the height adjustment of the router itself? As I think of it, it might be worth it just to be able to access the collet nut from above.

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post #46 of 47 Old 09-08-2020, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucet999 View Post
Thanks again for the video and for this latest response.

No, my homemade router table is 27" x 15", flush with the back rail, and I find it convenient to work from the end rather than from the front. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to move the base to the left until the fence reaches the left side of the saw table, leaving the insert of an Incra 28 x 21 router table and about 12" of table clear to work from the end when using bearing bits.

For router fence work, I would have to rotate the whole fence system. Not a big deal, since I presently have to take time to mount and clamp my crude shop-made fence adapter to my T-fence anyway.

That lift is fairly pricey, BTW. Do you find it substantially better than reaching underneath for the height adjustment of the router itself? As I think of it, it might be worth it just to be able to access the collet nut from above.
I misunderstood your router table measurements before so you are correct, you would want to move the incra fence to the left when working on the router table.

All the Incra stuff is expensive but it is good quality. Before I started building out my own shop I worked at a friends wood shop. He had a Jessem lift that I really enjoyed working with. I was initially going to purchase the Jessem Master Lift 2 but the structure under the grizzly cast iron router table top made it more advantageous to go with the smaller Incra version. The incra dimensions are about an inch sorter than the Jessem lift. I had the cast iron top CNC'd out to fit the lift. If I had used the Jessem I would have had to cut some of the cast iron support structure, but with the Incra being 1" shorter I was able to leave all that support structure in-place under the table.

The Incra lift is just a rebranded Jessem master lift 2. There are a lot of good router lifts out there and quite a few are less expensive than the Jessem/Incra option. In the end I decided to go with something I already had experience with and so far I've been happy.

I find it handy to have the adjustments above the table. Being able to change the router bits above the table and being able to make precise height adjustments above the table is handy. I have an enclosure for the router as well so changing the bit or making height adjustments would be even more of a pain if I couldn't do it above the table.

Last edited by Bernie_72; 09-08-2020 at 11:04 AM. Reason: SP
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post #47 of 47 Old 09-09-2020, 11:24 PM
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Thank you, @DaveMills, for launching this thread.

Some of the answers to your questions introduced me to Incra TS-LS, that will give me repeatable accuracy for my secret boxes project and add a top-notch router table/fence/lift system to my little Delta Hybrid saw..

I was also inspired to find out that the trunnion of my saw was mis-aligned. After correcting that, and properly aligning my fence, I now get perfectly clean cuts without any contact of the rear teeth as the work passes through the blade.

All because you asked a question. :)

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