Table legs with metal threaded inserts - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 02-13-2020, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
Table legs with metal threaded inserts

I'm adding table legs to an old top. I'm planning to put hanger bolts in the legs and threaded inserts in the top. The legs and top are oak.

My concern is how perfectly straight do I need to drill to install the hanger bolt and the threaded insert? If it's off by a degree or two, will it pull itself flat when I tighten it?



I have a drill press but it's not tall enough to drill into the end of a table leg. I can probably get the table top positioned under the drill press, but is that necessary? Hints and comments are welcome.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20200206_152521.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	354.0 KB
ID:	384799  

kbright is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 02-13-2020, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
The old table top has short stubby legs, and I'm trying to extend them with the hanger bolts and threaded inserts. There will be a shelf between the legs to add structural support. I know that another solution would be to rebuild the apron with integral legs and proper glued wood joints.
kbright is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 02-13-2020, 09:06 PM
Senior Member
 
TomCT2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,384
View TomCT2's Photo Album My Photos
not sure I completely understand your proposal - but . . .


threaded insert at top
hanger bolt at bottom
both right handed thread....
there's no way to tighten them together. tightening the upper loosens the lower, & visa versa
to use top insert and bottom insert/hanger bolt you need a "turnbuckle" arrangement which one side has left handed threads.



is the theory to add space between the carcass of the short stubby legs and the table top?
or add space to the bottom of the legs?
TomCT2 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 02-13-2020, 09:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 5,655
View FrankC's Photo Album My Photos
If you are doing what I have tried to illustrate there should be no problem if the hanger bolt is not exactly straight within a few degrees, as the bottom leg is tightened the top of the leg will tend to align it.
Attached Images
 

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

FrankC
http://sawdustmaking.com
http://woodworkerglossary.com
FrankC is online now  
post #5 of 10 Old 03-04-2020, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
The legs are done, came out OK. Adjusted the hanger bolt depth to get the squared legs to orient properly. Once they are tight, it is strong.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Chess_table1.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	81.8 KB
ID:	385485  

kbright is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 03-05-2020, 05:31 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,275
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Nice rescue!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbright View Post
The legs are done, came out OK. Adjusted the hanger bolt depth to get the squared legs to orient properly. Once they are tight, it is strong.

I would have done the same thing to save that nice gaming top. I'm glad the inserts and hanger bolts worked out because there aren't a lot of other ways to accomplish extending a table leg. One idea I had would have been a long lag bolt in a recess with a plug from the top down into the leg, but that would have required a matching of the color and veneer.... not easy. Good work!


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #7 of 10 Old 03-06-2020, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
I came very close to giving up on the "fix" and just building a new skirt with proper legs, and then building the new top, and that would be building a new table.

But the hanger bolt and threaded inserts worked well.



I do have multiple color tones that do not match well. But I really like the color I got on the mahogany, and no doubt my wife will cover the top with a place mat or rug.

The top is finished in tung oil and buffed wax. The lower shelf is common plywood, with several coats of oil based varnish.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Chess_table2.jpg
Views:	15
Size:	110.1 KB
ID:	385515  

kbright is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 03-06-2020, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
I rotated my bench drill press over the side to get controlled vertical mounting holes in the long legs.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20200215_140430b.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	510.3 KB
ID:	385517  

kbright is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 03-07-2020, 10:58 AM
CharleyL
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 281
View CharleyL's Photo Album My Photos
Before I bought a floor standing drill press, I had the base of my bench drill press mounted backwards and the head and table positioned to hang off the front edge of the bench, much like you show in the photo. For long work I used boxes and scraps piled on the floor to hold my work at the needed height to drill the holes. Using drill progressively longer bits with extended shanks, I was able to drill center holes for lamps, etc. this way. I now have the floor standing drill press, plus two bench drill presses, so the bench drill presses are both mounded to the bench the normal way to reduce the needed floor space that the backwards mounting required. We come up with all kinds of ways when we don't have the right equipment and are desperate to do certain projects. To me, that's part of the "Fun of woodworking".

I think I would have put the threaded inserts in the bottom of the short legs and the hanger bolts in the top of the extensions. This way it would be easy to use the table either way easily, if you later decided to remove the extensions. Both ways work, but my way makes it easier if you should ever want the extensions removed to use the short leg table again.

Charley

Last edited by CharleyL; 03-07-2020 at 11:02 AM.
CharleyL is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 03-08-2020, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
View kbright's Photo Album My Photos
@CharleyL Yes, as you suggested I put the recessed threads in the short legs, and the bolt extensions in the long removable legs.



I enjoy making jigs and modifying my shop almost as much as making things.
kbright is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome