Originally Posted by West North West
Thought I'd follow up here, sorry it's nearly 2 months later. I decided that my table saw jointer jig was just fine. I ended up with a cupped tabletop, though, which led me down another path. I got a hand plane, went to town on the table top, but the grain on the 2 pieces of joined wood was not symmetrical, and I ended up with quite a bit of tearout. I finally decided that I needed a planer, and bought a Grizzly G0505. With that, I planed 2 more sheets of pine and jointed them with my table saw, and the table top came out looking pretty good.
I'm moving on now, but hand planing is wizardry that I only began to skim the surface of (no pun intended). I ended up with a shop full of shavings and never got rid of the unevenness of the surface. If you looked at the amount of shavings I had created, you'd think I had planed down a large piece of pine completely, just to make shavings.
Ah, the joys of hand planing.
Almost every source I've found on flattening boards with a hand plane says to start on the concave side of the board, and takes the sides down until it lies flat. Every time I've tried that, I've wound up frustrated, and with a board that was not useable. For me, and assuming the board is cupped, but not twisted much, I'd rather start on the convex side. Then I can traverse the middle of the board to bring it down: once that side is flat, THEN I can work on the edges of the other side. Then again, I'm weird. In any case, you might try it that way if you come across another cupped board you want to flatten, and for some reason don't want to use your planer. Me... I'm almost exclusively hand tools, and I'd rather use the planer.