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post #1 of 11 Old 09-04-2012, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Spindle moulder

Hi any one got any experience with curved work on a spindle moulder ?
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-04-2012, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by british woodtopper View Post
Hi any one got any experience with curved work on a spindle moulder ?
If you are referring to a shaper and using a rub collar, yes.






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post #3 of 11 Old 09-05-2012, 08:46 AM
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It's not difficult to make curved molding with a shaper. The important thing to do is make the board oversized so you have something to hold on to and then cut it back after you run it through the shaper. I use a Northfield Production Shaper.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-05-2012, 09:07 AM
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Some examples...
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Spindle moulder-mbar2.jpg
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Spindle moulder-mbar3.jpg
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Spindle moulder-mbar4.jpg






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post #5 of 11 Old 09-05-2012, 11:12 AM
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LOL

Where are you from? "Spindle Moulder" is what the Europeans call a "Shaper."

And a note of caution, they can be pretty dangerous if you are not familiar with them.

Edit. See you are from England.

Pure mathematics is, in it's way, the poetry of logical ideas. - Albert Einstein.

Last edited by WillemJM; 09-05-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Wow that is some moulding work very impressive I hope achieve results like that . Got some learning to do
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillemJM
LOL

Where are you from? "Spindle Moulder" is what the Europeans call a "Shaper."

And a note of caution, they can be pretty dangerous if you are not familiar with them.

Edit. See you are from England.
Hi I'm from south Wales and have a business in a town called Abergavenny and live in a place called mynyddislwyn. Can you say that? I have a felder z700 series and use it most days for producing furniture items and making windows door etc. so I'm aware of the dangers . Ask for advise cause I'd like to keep my fingers! Ring fence, or bearing guide ? How much run in run out, got a million questions think I'm going to have to get some training or start with something very simple.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by british woodtopper

Hi I'm from south Wales and have a business in a town called Abergavenny and live in a place called mynyddislwyn. Can you say that?

Nope! :)

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did in his
sleep. Not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car.

Jack Handey
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 08:24 AM
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When doing curved work on a shaper, (spindle molder), You typically use two accessories, a rub collar or rub bearing along with a starting pin. The starting pin is a small but solid post that is placed vertically in the table top close to the cutters. There is often a tapped or tapered hole in the table for the pin. The pin gives you something for the work piece to make contact with in addition to the cutters, so you can ease into the cut with more control and not be only in contact with the cutters, which may kick the work out of your hands.

Curved work can also be done with a curved fence, made to match your specific needs. It is also done with a template that the work piece attaches to and that template runs against the rub collar. Starting pins are also often used along with the template.

When using a starting pin, it's important that the work piece cannot fit between the pin and the cutters. Otherwise, the work can get sucked in between the pin and cutters and go flying.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/272...0.html?page=23
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 08:50 AM
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I'd like to add that a power feeder makes working on a shaper safer. I would recommend that addition if you don't have one.





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post #11 of 11 Old 09-06-2012, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Ok what if you've roughed out a shape of say a swept chair leg and you are cutting on the shaper and the grain direction changes along its length ? Do you work against the rotation of do you have to make another jig to turn and feed the other way?
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