Setting Glass Insert Flush in Wood Table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-12-2012, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Setting Glass Insert Flush in Wood Table

Good day everyone:

I have a table, pictured below, that has holes cut into it where I place 22" flatscreen TVs, suspended by velcro straps so they can be viewed through the table surface. To make things simple, I originally just covered the entire 7' x 3' area with a piece of quarter inch glass, but after a year of this setup I'd like to clean up the design, as well as make it lighter.

The plan now is to set glass inserts over the TVs, but not over the entire table. To do this, I'll use 1/4" glass. What I need to do is cut a 1/4" deep countersunk edge around the entire hole so that the glass can be set in and sit flush, and then I'll seal the two pieces together with T-grommet tape (not sure what it is called exactly).

The only idea I've come up with so far is to use a router with a dado bit and just cut the dado joint along the edge of the hole so the outer edge is a right angle, but the inner edge is just cut down a quarter inch. Is this plausible? Is there a better way to do this?

Thanks,

Hunter

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-12-2012, 12:48 PM
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You can make that "step" with a rabbeting router bit. This assembly comes with different size bearings for different rabbet dimensions.





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post #3 of 12 Old 06-12-2012, 02:01 PM
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Yup, I'd use a rabbet bit too. The size of the bearing determines the inset while the router depth adjustment determines the depth. You will need to touch up the corners with a chisel as the bit will leave a rounded profile. Easy, and no problem.

Howie..........
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowardAcheson View Post
You will need to touch up the corners with a chisel as the bit will leave a rounded profile. Easy, and no problem.

Buy your glass with radius-ed corners.

My supplier charges .25 per corner, it's a no brain er for me, and I like the look.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-12-2012, 09:01 PM
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+1 on buying the glass with rounded corners, most rabbeting bits will leave a rounded corner with about an 11/16" radius.
You could also do it with a pattern bit and some guide strips to get a tighter corner. Or, if you have a router set up with a roller guide you can just do it with a straight bit.

John

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Last edited by jschaben; 06-12-2012 at 09:07 PM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-13-2012, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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I actually don't have a router so I'm either going to go buy one or borrow one from someone.

How do I get a straight outer edge? Do I need to make a template?
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-14-2012, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrigsby View Post
I actually don't have a router so I'm either going to go buy one or borrow one from someone.

How do I get a straight outer edge? Do I need to make a template?
Oh man is it great to see another Clemson person on here!

I just use a straight edge and stop blocks. My plunge base on my router has a flat spot, I just make sure that is snug up against the straight edge. Then I stop once the router hits the stop block that I set perpendicular to the straight edge.

Also, some router bits, like the ones CabinetMan recommended, come with a bearing. Once the cutter goes into the wood, the bearing stops the cutter from going farther into the wood. Then, just make sure the bearing stays tight against the wood and just go around the cut out.

Just remember, inside routing is clockwise and outside is counter-clockwise.

Last edited by liquid6; 06-14-2012 at 09:57 AM. Reason: added content.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 08:36 AM
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I would also use the rabbeting bit to insert the glass. I think it looks neater if you chisel out corners of the rabbet square rather than rounding the glass if you have sharp chisels. If the glass is to be removable I normally cover the edge the glass sits on with felt. If the glass is to be permanent I finish the wood and set the glass in with clear silicone. You just have to be liberal with the silicone and trim what oozes out after it dries.
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Clemson all day! I'm a rising junior.

cabinetman, for the product you linked, does it matter which one I get? There are two, and the bit itself of each has a different diameter (1/4" and 1/2"). I guess it wouldn't really affect much other than the number of passes it took?

Also, I can set the depth to half of the actual bit, correct? All of the little diagrams have the depth of the cut at 1/2", and I believe that is the height of the bit itself.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hrigsby View Post
Clemson all day! I'm a rising junior.

cabinetman, for the product you linked, does it matter which one I get? There are two, and the bit itself of each has a different diameter (1/4" and 1/2"). I guess it wouldn't really affect much other than the number of passes it took?

Also, I can set the depth to half of the actual bit, correct? All of the little diagrams have the depth of the cut at 1/2", and I believe that is the height of the bit itself.
You may find this site easier to order from
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ng9_kit_anchor
With rabbetting bits, depth of cut generally refers to the width of the rabbet. Actually, it can get kind of confusing referring to it that way. The width of the rabbet is set with the bearing, the height of the rabbet is set with the router.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-28-2012, 02:17 PM
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Use wood strips cut on 45 degree in each corner to make a square and dado the outside edge to give you the correct depth you need.
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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Awesome
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