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post #1 of 6 Old 02-14-2012, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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restoration and old glue

I am redoing a vintage porcelain table for a friend, all the wood frame has come loose. Some where over the years it was poorly redone with some type of glue.

Most of the joints are accessible, easy to clean and redo with Elmers wood glue.

A few of the joints would be extremely difficult to clean, way more effort than I want to put into it. I believe I have read somewhere that Gorrilla glue can be used over old glue. Is this possible or recommended?

I have the Gorilla glue than say's bonds wood, stone, metal, cearamic, glass and more.

I did a search on this and there is way too much info available TMI.

JIm 0311
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-18-2012, 08:10 AM
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White or carpenters glue will not work on previously glued joints. These adhesives work by soaking into the pores of the wood and turning hard. If it is a reglue the pores of the wood are sealed so you are trying to adhere glue to glue. It would be equivilent to trying to glue two pieces of plexiglass together with wood glue. I don't like gorilla glue for restoration. It is too messy. It keeps ozzing for hours and you end up having to clean some off the finished wood after it dries. Having felt the dried glue being more like "Great Stuff" the expansion foam insulation, my instincts tell me it is an inferior product for that purpose. I believe the best adhesive to use is epoxy. Of course you first need to clean as much of the old glue as possible and re-drill dowel holes.l
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-18-2012, 09:22 AM
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Without seeing the problem, the separated areas may be glue starved from the git go. But, trying to clean separated areas may cause more damage than not. If the parts have fitted and you go poking around and change the fit of the pieces, they may never fit back together properly.

I would not use Gorilla Glue. Very tight fitting joints can be reglued with a two part epoxy, but epoxy works best when there are slight gaps. I would examine the mating parts and might use Titebond II or III depending on how the parts look.






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post #4 of 6 Old 02-19-2012, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input always appreciated. JIm 0311
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-19-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
White or carpenters glue will not work on previously glued joints. These adhesives work by soaking into the pores of the wood and turning hard. If it is a reglue the pores of the wood are sealed so you are trying to adhere glue to glue. It would be equivilent to trying to glue two pieces of plexiglass together with wood glue. I don't like gorilla glue for restoration. It is too messy. It keeps ozzing for hours and you end up having to clean some off the finished wood after it dries. Having felt the dried glue being more like "Great Stuff" the expansion foam insulation, my instincts tell me it is an inferior product for that purpose. I believe the best adhesive to use is epoxy. Of course you first need to clean as much of the old glue as possible and re-drill dowel holes.l
If you use the white gorilla glue it will not foam out of the joint. The syurp color will foam. I only use the white when i use gorilla glue.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-19-2012, 06:13 PM
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Had an old table and some maple office chairs with loose joints...cleaned out with an abrasive...then used TiteBond 3 as I recall...all is well presently and that was 5 years ago...doing fine...
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