Raised panel exterior door - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-10-2014, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Raised panel exterior door

Looking to break in my new router table with putting together a new exterior door for my home. I imagine the plans would be similar to most frame and pane construction but am a little lost on the specifics to be sure I do it right. Where is a good place to start with this?
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-10-2014, 08:40 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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search "exterior door build" and you will find this

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/bu...-11451/index2/

This was a determined effort by Steve G who made a beautiful door inspite of some concerns it would be difficult, he just went ahead and got it done!

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-10-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GISer3546 View Post
Looking to break in my new router table with putting together a new exterior door for my home. I imagine the plans would be similar to most frame and pane construction but am a little lost on the specifics to be sure I do it right. Where is a good place to start with this?
A entry door is 1 3/4" thick so you would need a supplier that you could get 8/4 lumber from. The stiles need to be especially straight so you either need buy enough lumber to get a couple of straight boards or have the equipment to flatten the stiles before surfacing them. The finished stile is usually 7" wide so you would need a 8" jointer or wider to face them. It just takes less lumber if you get the wood rough and mill the stiles flat first before surfacing. The panels are usually 1 3/8" thick with a raise on both sides. Unless you use multiple panels the wood would need to be glued up for the raised panels. Since it is a exterior door subject to the weather you would need to use an exterior glue such as titebond III. The only real difference the coping and sticking set for a entry door is profile on both sides. Unlike the cabinet door though which is ready to assemble after milling the parts the entry door needs dowels too to keep it together. I normally use 2- 1/2" dowels 5" long in each joint with the exception of the bottom rail which I use 4 dowels.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-10-2014, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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As far as equipment I have a 1 3/4 hp band saw with a 16" resaw capacity and would like to resaw as much of it as I can. For straightening I have a #7 stanley a wood river #5. I am missing the jointer but have a router sled that could do it. I have plenty of experience with mortise and tennons, just wasn`t aware 5" long was the length I needed.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-10-2014, 09:28 PM
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As far as equipment I have a 1 3/4 hp band saw with a 16" resaw capacity and would like to resaw as much of it as I can. For straightening I have a #7 stanley a wood river #5. I am missing the jointer but have a router sled that could do it. I have plenty of experience with mortise and tennons, just wasn`t aware 5" long was the length I needed.
You could cut the wood with the bandsaw and work it flat with a hand plane. It would just be too much work for me. If you are experienced with mortise and tennons then I would prefer that. Most folks would use dowels because it is easier. You wouldn't necessarily need a 5" tenon on your rails. The 5" length for the dowels was 2 1/2" into each part.
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