Old Methane Gas Cloud
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
As Leo suggested.... The drill bit is the big problem.
The first thing that I noticed was the drill bit. It is just a nice taper bit with a stop collar. The Kreg system requires a drill bit that creates a shoulder in the hole. Then the Kreg screws have a place to hold without pulling through.
I have used the Kreg system on a poplar face frame with no problems at all. I did use Kreg washer head screws and the appropriate drill bit. The drill bit is expensive, like $20 or more but is the correct drill bit for the job. This drill bit (Difficult to describe w/o getting banned.) is really two drill bits in one. The front of the drill bit has a 5/8" long bit that is intended to be a body drill for the Kreg screw shank. The rest of the drill bit will cut a 3/8" hole with a flat bottom. When used in a pocket joint fixture, the point of the drill bit should barely protrude through the wood.
The effect of using this drill bit is similar to using a 3/8" Forstner bit to drill to a depth that leaves 5/8" material undrilled. Then use a 5/32" bit to drill through the remaining material.
There are a few things unique about the Kreg screws. The 1-1/4" screws are a true washer head screw while the shorter screws have a smaller head. The underside of these screw heads are square to the shank of the screw. The Kreg screw is a clamping device. Finally the Kreg screw is a self drilling screw. (Similar to a self tapping metal screw.) The Kreg screw has a Robertson (a.k.a. square) drive. HOWEVER all Robertson drive screws are not pocket screws.
Use the right tool for the job.
Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
Last edited by rrich; 04-08-2013 at 01:51 AM.