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post #1 of 8 Old 09-29-2015, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Question Panel to substrate?

About gluing a thin panel to a more stable substrate. I have a walnut panel, a 9" widened with one extra board, to 14". I resawed it and flattened it, but now have panels that are 1-a little less than 1/4 and 2-a little more than a 1/4. Not the best resaw I've ever done, and I'm still learning. 1---The question I have, is whether that is thick enough to put in a frame and panel door (13 1/2 w x 25 1/2 Long panel size). I have other wood I can use to make new panels, just thought I was good enough to resaw this board that had such great figure in it. ?2---can I glue these panels to a 1/4-1/2" walnut panel or ply and not have them crack? Or should I just start over. Thanks for looking.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-29-2015, 09:16 PM
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If it were me...

I would run the panels through the planer or a wide belt sander, removing a bit off each face until they were the same thickness. I don't see an issue gluing them to a 1/4" panel. Wood is unpredictable, so you will be taking a chance. In my experience, anytime you glue something to one face you should also glue something to the other face to prevent warping.

If it were thinner you might get away with only one face being glued, but 1/4" is fairly thick. So, you would be taking a chance by gluing to only one face.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-29-2015, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. So, would you glue each of them to ply, or to another walnut panel? I could make the substrate thin or thick, whichever is better. They're book matched right now, so I'd like to save them if I could. Have 3 more I was going to resaw, and now I'm gun shy.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-29-2015, 10:11 PM
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why not just try it

Glue your 1/4" Walnut to a 1/2" plywood panel and see what happens. I would probably use contact cement rather than glue .,.. less moisture. Again, this is uncharted territory so it's bit of a risk.

If you have the bandsaw to resaw 13 1/2" panels, I would not be concerned with the slight variation in thickness. You've gotta have a real sharp fresh blade to be successful. You have to control the vertical with a tall fence to avoid variations also. I use a jointer after resawing each piece to give a smooth flat surface for the next pass. That would require a wide arse jointer in your case. If you glue it to a panel you can run the laminate through the thickness planer or a wide belt sander

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-29-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the confusion. I did edge glue a resawn 4" board to the resawn 9" board. Then a ran it through a drum sander. Thanks for your advice.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-30-2015, 02:34 AM
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Gluing the panels you have to a substrate isnt anything different than veneering. Admittedly, 1/4 is a little thick to call it veneer, but still, same concept. Go with a dimensionally stable substrate, i like mdf, and follow the usual veneering procedure and i wouldnt forsee any issues

That said, i dont know why youd want to apply you material to a substrate in this particular case. 1/4 seems plenty thick enough for a panel door to me, at least at the size you quoted

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post #7 of 8 Old 09-30-2015, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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I thought about gluing to a substrate and THEN planing them down so they would end up being a thinner skin. What do you think about that approach? Ply, mdf, or another thin walnut panel? Which?
Your idea about contact cement to prevent moisture from playing more of a part has merit.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-30-2015, 05:20 PM
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You should never glue dissimilar materials together. They will move, or not move, at different rates. The panel can crack or warp, which is most likely. Even gluing thin materials will have the same effect. Just leave your panels as they are. Make the face pretty and cut a rabbet or bevel around the backside of the panel so it will fit in the groove of the frame. A shot or two with a low angle block plane will do the job. The panel doesn't need to be thicker than 1/4" +-.
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