Ok to thin yellow wood glue (titebond)?? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dominick View Post
I'm curious to see how this goes.
Good luck.
I will post a report on the finished project.
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post #22 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 11:33 AM
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Ahhh... I remember discussing this project with ya on your previous thread. I'll be real interested to see how it goes too.

Good luck with it. Have you decided on the rest of the design... Aprons & legs?

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......
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post #23 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhh... I remember discussing this project with ya on your previous thread. I'll be real interested to see how it goes too.

Good luck with it. Have you decided on the rest of the design... Aprons & legs?

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......
Yes. The legs are 3"x3" square boards. Apron is from 1"x3" finished dimension boards. All joints are mortise and tenon including the gussets in the corners as shown in the attached photos of the base pieces laid out on the work bench prior to assembly.
Ok to thin yellow wood glue (titebond)??-100_1856.jpg

Ok to thin yellow wood glue (titebond)??-100_1859.jpg
The corner braces will be reiforced with screws from the inside to lock the corners together. These will be the only screws in the construction of the base. So there won't be any exposed screws or wood plugs.
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post #24 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torrey
Yes. The legs are 3"x3" square boards. Apron is from 1"x3" finished dimension boards. All joints are mortise and tenon including the gussets in the corners as shown in the attached photos of the base pieces laid out on the work bench prior to assembly.
<img src="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35475"/>

<img src="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35476"/>
The corner braces will be reiforced with screws from the inside to lock the corners together. These will be the only screws in the construction of the base. So there won't be any exposed screws or wood plugs.
With all that fine joinery I'm surprised you need any help.

When it's rustic......it's rustic
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post #25 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torrey
Yes. The legs are 3"x3" square boards. Apron is from 1"x3" finished dimension boards. All joints are mortise and tenon including the gussets in the corners as shown in the attached photos of the base pieces laid out on the work bench prior to assembly.
<img src="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35475"/>

<img src="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35476"/>
The corner braces will be reiforced with screws from the inside to lock the corners together. These will be the only screws in the construction of the base. So there won't be any exposed screws or wood plugs.
Terrific! Looks absolutely great! Those mortise and tenon joints and corner braces look like they were made by a true craftsman.

What type of lumber is that? Looks a lot like what the Indonesians send us as "plantation mahogany".

Keep up the great work!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......
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post #26 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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With all that fine joinery I'm surprised you need any help.
It's the help I get here and other places on the web that are making it possible. This table is my second furniture project.
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post #27 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
Terrific! Looks absolutely great! Those mortise and tenon joints and corner braces look like they were made by a true craftsman.

What type of lumber is that? Looks a lot like what the Indonesians send us as "plantation mahogany".

Keep up the great work!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......
The lumber is a local Belizian hardwood called CABBAGE BARK.
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post #28 of 36 Old 01-13-2012, 09:00 AM
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Nice looking joints and wood
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post #29 of 36 Old 01-13-2012, 04:56 PM
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cabbage hmm looks good, does it smell funny? seriously great work,
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post #30 of 36 Old 03-23-2015, 01:29 AM
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Thumbs up Pretty Joinery

Just thought I'd add to the praise and commend the nice looking joinery; that look's like a joint that will serve several generations after you.

I'm also curious about the cabbage wood... Are there any known characteristics that you can pass on?
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post #31 of 36 Old 03-23-2015, 09:33 PM
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I would not thin your material any more. Go with the 1/4" on top of the 5/8". This leaves you some room for sanding the top prior to your finish. Because your top has been thinned to 1/4" and will be glued to a plywood base, you can pattern your top any way you want. You could make it a parquet pattern.
If this is a large table, you may want to put a skirt around it to for strength.
Good luck with your project.
Jim
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post #32 of 36 Old 03-24-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
Torrey
I would not thin your material any more. Go with the 1/4" on top of the 5/8". This leaves you some room for sanding the top prior to your finish. Because your top has been thinned to 1/4" and will be glued to a plywood base, you can pattern your top any way you want. You could make it a parquet pattern.
If this is a large table, you may want to put a skirt around it to for strength.
Good luck with your project.
Jim
You do realize this is a post from 2012 guys.

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post #33 of 36 Old 10-05-2015, 03:02 PM
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When my Titebond glue gets old, say 10 years old, it thickens in the bottle and that's why I thin it with water.
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post #34 of 36 Old 10-05-2015, 03:43 PM
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Uhhhh, buy new glue.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #35 of 36 Old 10-06-2015, 01:55 PM
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Wink Thin the glue?

Oops

Last edited by Charliemike; 10-06-2015 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Got in the wrong thread. Sorry.
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post #36 of 36 Old 10-18-2015, 04:00 PM
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You should be able to plane the wood down to 1/8" if you use a bed sled in your planer clamped down so that the bed rollers won't be distorting your thin pieces.

If your going to be gluing a thin layer on the plywood top, I would also glue a layer on the bottom to even out the stresses.

In the future you can bandsaw a 3/16" slice, rejoin the face and then repeat for as many layers as you need. Then use the bed roll on your planer to plane all of the slices down to 1/8".

I wouldn't thin the glue, Titebond III will allow you enough time to coat each face if the temperature and humidity are favorable.
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