Ok to thin yellow wood glue (titebond)?? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ok to thin yellow wood glue (titebond)??

I am going to be flat glueing 3" wide boars to cabinet finished plywood for a table top I am thinking of "thinning" the glue a little to make for thin smooth application of the glue and longer work time. Does anyone have input on doing the thinning. I am looking at 5% water as suggested in another website forum thread I found.
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post #2 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by torrey View Post
I am going to be flat glueing 3" wide boars to cabinet finished plywood for a table top I am thinking of "thinning" the glue a little to make for thin smooth application of the glue and longer work time. Does anyone have input on doing the thinning. I am looking at 5% water as suggested in another website forum thread I found.
You could, but I wouldn't.






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post #3 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 08:56 PM
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Thinning = less glue in the joint. I wouldn't do it, either.

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post #4 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 08:58 PM
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Why wood you?Most wood glue dries clear.

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post #5 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 10:18 PM
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I wouldnt if its a big top do it in sections its easier and solid glue is better than deluted How thin is the wood????

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post #6 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 10:56 PM
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Leave it unthinned and put it on with a roller. I use a 3" hot dog roller for paint and a white foam roller. Works well and fast. But it puts on a thinner coat than I like so I coat both of the pcs to be joined.

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post #7 of 36 Old 01-11-2012, 11:16 PM
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If you go with TB3 it will have a longer working time. I've thinned yellow glues a couple times for various reasons and never had any poor outcomes but I can see how it could cause problems.

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post #8 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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I wouldnt if its a big top do it in sections its easier and solid glue is better than deluted How thin is the wood????
Right now the boards are 1/4" thick but I'm contemplating planing them down a little more.
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post #9 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by torrey View Post
Right now the boards are 1/4" thick but I'm contemplating planing them down a little more.
I am curious. How do you plane something down from a 1/4" ? You are more or less applying a veneer at that point.
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post #10 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torrey
Right now the boards are 1/4" thick but I'm contemplating planing them down a little more.
Torrey 1/4 inch is a bit thin for a table top.
It should be at least 3/4. You might want to evaluate your project. And do something different.
How did it get that thin?
Did you plane it to that thickness?

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post #11 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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I am curious. How do you plane something down from a 1/4" ? You are more or less applying a veneer at that point.
My planer goes down to 1/8". Yes it is going to be basically a veneer. on the 3/4" plywood.
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post #12 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:06 AM
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titebond can be thinned down 5% water, but I haven't ever
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post #13 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:09 AM
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My planer goes down to 1/8". Yes it is going to be basically a veneer. on the 3/4" plywood.
Was a higher quality ply not available?
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post #14 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Torrey 1/4 inch is a bit thin for a table top.
It should be at least 3/4. You might want to evaluate your project. And do something different.
How did it get that thin?
Did you plane it to that thickness?
The hardwood is being glued on to a sheet of plywood. Yes I planed it down to this thickness because the wood I need to use (to match the chairs) is reported to have a tendency for warpage over time and could tend to separate at joints or split if done as a solid top. The idea of planing down to a "laminate" concept is to reduce the volume of the hardwood and "anchor" it on to the plywood. My thinking was that the thinner wood will not have the strenth to warp like 1" thick peices would. The wood was kiln dried over two months ago so hopefully will be stable as it is going to be. It is an unusual idea but I discussed it with a cabinet maker that is used to working with the woods down here in Belize and he felt it was a "possible" idea worth trying.
This is my first table and perhaps I'm being too adventurous but that is my nature so "pray" for me. If it doesn't work out then we will be discussing design for my SECOND table. I've decided that furniture building is going to be my retirement hobby so If I have to practice it just fills up more time.
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post #15 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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titebond can be thinned down 5% water, but I haven't ever
Yes I had read that on another website as reported to be info from a titebond company representative who indicated no reduction of strength. But 10% does weaken it so it may be too much of a gamble with the risk of getting the ration wrong.
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post #16 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torrey View Post
The hardwood is being glued on to a sheet of plywood. Yes I planed it down to this thickness because the wood I need to use (to match the chairs) is reported to have a tendency for warpage over time and could tend to separate at joints or split if done as a solid top. The idea of planing down to a "laminate" concept is to reduce the volume of the hardwood and "anchor" it on to the plywood. My thinking was that the thinner wood will not have the strenth to warp like 1" thick peices would. The wood was kiln dried over two months ago so hopefully will be stable as it is going to be. It is an unusual idea but I discussed it with a cabinet maker that is used to working with the woods down here in Belize and he felt it was a "possible" idea worth trying.
This is my first table and perhaps I'm being too adventurous but that is my nature so "pray" for me. If it doesn't work out then we will be discussing design for my SECOND table. I've decided that furniture building is going to be my retirement hobby so If I have to practice it just fills up more time.
For what you are doing, thinner is better. 1/4" may be too thick, try 1/8". That would be taking it down by hand though. Once done, you also want a good seal coat as your first layer.
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post #17 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Was a higher quality ply not available?
No, down here in this little village in Belize I have to use what they import in and they have a tendency to only bring in less expensive stuff to accomodate the local economy factors. The ply wood is much more expensive than the beautiful hardwoods down here because it has to be imported. The sheet of plywood for this project cost almost as much as ALL the hardood for the base and laminate planks.
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post #18 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:27 AM
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Ahh. Carry on then.
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post #19 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:29 AM
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I'm curious to see how this goes.
Good luck.

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post #20 of 36 Old 01-12-2012, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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For what you are doing, thinner is better. 1/4" may be too thick, try 1/8". That would be taking it down by hand though. Once done, you also want a good seal coat as your first layer.
I don't think I could succeed in hand planing evenly, I'm not that gifted, but my thickness planer can go down to 1/8".
I just remembered that I said the plywood was 3/4" (which was my plan) but they only had 5/8" so that is what I'm using. But that would still leave me with a finished thickness of 3/4" and the base is built with cross supports underneath so it should be strong enough.
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