new dato blade is crap - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 43 Old 11-23-2007, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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I almost cut me thumb off when I was 19. Luckily I only needed a skin graft. That was over 20 years ago, and I'm still scared of anything with teeth that spins.
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post #22 of 43 Old 11-23-2007, 11:49 PM
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Bloodlust of blades

Since we've moved to a general talk on blades and blood and our OP seems happy, I want to relay a story from about 30years ago. It was my first day in shop class, back when schools in NYC actually HAD a shop class. My Teacher, Mr. M. (a very private fellow, wouldn't want me putting his name here) told us all to get out a pencil & paper. MATH was the subject, and here is the question:
DATA:
1)A 10 inch 60 tooth tablesaw blade is spinning at 3000 RPM.
2)The average reaction time for a human to feel something and start to pull away from it (pain or heat) is about 1.5 seconds from the time you feel it to the time you're moving away.
3)You're feeding a board into the tablesaw at a rate of 1 inch per second and you're not being careful.

Question: How mant teeth will pass through your hand, and how deep will the cut be?

That's how he opened a 2-day lecture on shop safety. Great guy!!
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post #23 of 43 Old 12-02-2007, 07:07 AM
 
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High school shop class did nothing for me. I remember our shop teacher showing us how to jam a RAS. 12" DeWalt if I remember. Started it up....WHAM!!!!!! Just yanked 'er into some 8/4 oak. Stalled the blade. Scared the BEJEEZUZ outta me!!!!!

Next day he damned near cut his finger off showing us what NOT to do on the 20" General bandsaw. 6 stitches.
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post #24 of 43 Old 12-06-2007, 04:20 PM
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I once got my hand sucked into my router when I was using cope and stick bits. It chewed up my glove thoroughly and stalled, with only one finger damaged, (bone splintered and some skin taken). Later, when I taught intermediate woodworking at the local university hobby shop, I would begin woodshop safety by pulling out my tattered glove. I told them that this is what the router did to my glove, WITH MY HAND IN IT! It got their attention. Oh, and I no longer wear gloves when using the router table.
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post #25 of 43 Old 12-06-2007, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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mmwood I checked out you work. That is some amazing stuff. I'm just starting out. I keep screwing up my measurements. How long have you been woodworking?
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post #26 of 43 Old 12-07-2007, 03:42 PM
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BigredC,

Thanks for the praise. I began as a kid, building forts. Progressed to furniture in my teens; did a season building garages; worked 2 years in a cabinet shop. At 20, burned out and disillusioned, I left Chicago and hit the road, landing in Oregon. Spent 11 years as a baker, burned out on THAT, and started my current shop. That's been 14 years now.

As regards measurements, I'm currently working on a job about 1 hour from my shop. In the first phase of installation, I discovered that, SOMEHOW, I had gotten my measurements wrong on 2 doors and 4 drawer faces. Go figure. Even after all these years.....it still can happen. Good Luck!
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post #27 of 43 Old 12-07-2007, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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When I'm in a bad situation I've always tried to think it could be worse, to make me feel better. Lately when I screw up on the wood, I think of guy's like you being far from the shop with something very expensive. All the money and lost time involved when you make a mistake. It makes me glad I earn my living as an electrician. It would take the fun out it for me if I did wood for a living. I just don't have what it takes to do it for a living. I'm sure I'll get faster in time, but I've been spending ridiculous amounts of time doing stuff that you guy's would consider simple. But I'm having fun.
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post #28 of 43 Old 12-08-2007, 09:34 PM
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This is the answer to your problem! Return the Sears blade, looks like somethings wrong with the chippers. Amazon has what you need right now for $59 and some change -- designed just for this application. Normally around $80. Very important to have zero clearance blade insert and backer board!

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw...+joint&x=0&y=0

Last edited by KC7CN; 12-08-2007 at 09:37 PM. Reason: added more information
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post #29 of 43 Old 12-08-2007, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a Freud set. It's great. I started this thread a while back. We moved to talking about almost cutting our fingers off. Read back a few. I do the same thing sometimes. I skip to the end. Thanks anyway
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post #30 of 43 Old 12-09-2007, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredc View Post
I bought a Freud set. It's great. I started this thread a while back. We moved to talking about almost cutting our fingers off. Read back a few. I do the same thing sometimes. I skip to the end. Thanks anyway
I realized this post had a lot of content, but was anxious to share the sale price on the Freud box joint blade; I paid $80-90 for mine!

My bad!

-Don
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post #31 of 43 Old 12-09-2007, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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You should have said it was a Freud. I have the 6" dato. That one is a 8" box set. Can you do different things with the box set compared to the dato set. Are there many times when you need an 8" blade, and a 6" won't work. I checked the box set is $90 around here.
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post #32 of 43 Old 12-09-2007, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredc View Post
You should have said it was a Freud. I have the 6" dato. That one is a 8" box set. Can you do different things with the box set compared to the dato set. Are there many times when you need an 8" blade, and a 6" won't work. I checked the box set is $90 around here.
Although I own the Freud Box Joint set, I have not used it to cut box joints. Just a test cut, and from that I know it will do a very nice job.

I think it's time to ask the expert on Freud blades! I sent Charles M a private message about this post. He works for Freud, and has really been helpful on the subject.

-Don
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post #33 of 43 Old 12-10-2007, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredc View Post
You should have said it was a Freud. I have the 6" dato. That one is a 8" box set. Can you do different things with the box set compared to the dato set. Are there many times when you need an 8" blade, and a 6" won't work. I checked the box set is $90 around here.
bigredc,

The Box Joint Set is intended for cuts along the grain (like a rip blade) so it has no bevel teeth to shear fibers. The result is a completely square cut. You could use it for dado cuts that run parallel to the grain like grooves for drawer bottoms but it really isn't intended to replace the dado set. In regards to 6" vs. 8", the saw manufacturer will specify the maximum dado diameter so you always start there. If your saw can accept an 8" you may still be better served with the 6" since it requires 25% less torque to operate. On the other hand, some situations (like using a dado sled) may use some of the depth of cut so an 8" might be better.

Thanks to Don for pointing me to your question.
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post #34 of 43 Old 12-10-2007, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles M View Post
bigredc,

The Box Joint Set is intended for cuts along the grain (like a rip blade) so it has no bevel teeth to shear fibers. The result is a completely square cut. You could use it for dado cuts that run parallel to the grain like grooves for drawer bottoms but it really isn't intended to replace the dado set. In regards to 6" vs. 8", the saw manufacturer will specify the maximum dado diameter so you always start there. If your saw can accept an 8" you may still be better served with the 6" since it requires 25% less torque to operate. On the other hand, some situations (like using a dado sled) may use some of the depth of cut so an 8" might be better.

Thanks to Don for pointing me to your question.
And Thank You for replying to Bigredc's question; I was certain that you could contribute more than I could. I suspected the box joint blade would not leave the tiny score marks you typically have with a dado blade, but I wasn't certain for lack of 'first hand' experience.

-Don
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post #35 of 43 Old 12-10-2007, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for you fast response. My new saw will have no problem with power. I put a 3 hp motor on it. I'm like a kid, I want one of everything. I'm not rich I need to spend my money wisely. If as I get better I discover that I need it. I'll be mad I didn't get for a deal when it might be selling for 100 bucks in a year. Do other guys normally have both Dato and box sets or is one or the other the norm?

Last edited by bigredc; 12-14-2007 at 05:26 AM.
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post #36 of 43 Old 12-10-2007, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredc View Post
Thanks for you fast
response. My new saw will no problem with power. I put a 3 hp motor on it. I'm like a kid, I want one of everything. I'm not rich I need to spend my money wisely. If as I get better I discover that I need it. I'll be mad I didn't get for a deal when it might be selling for 100 bucks in a year. Do other guys normally have both Dato and box sets or is one or the other the norm?
You can make box joints with a stacked dado set but the bevel tips on the outer blades will leave tiny "bat ears" in the corners that some find unacceptable. So for those that need to make dadoes across grain and/or in plywood/melamine/laminates and also want crisp box joints it is best to have both a dado set and the Box Joint set.
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post #37 of 43 Old 12-12-2007, 12:28 AM
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Box Joint Blades

Hello , Just wanted to jump in real quick , what are the p/n or name of the box joint blades you were refering too ? I want a good set to make box joints on my new table saw . Thanks
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post #38 of 43 Old 12-12-2007, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Dovetailer59 go back a few post's to # 28 and click the link. The blade is SBOX8. I needed a regular blade for my saw, so won't be getting the box set. I bit the bullet and bought a Freud Premier Fusion. HOLY COW, that blade is unbelievable. Just turning the saw on you can tell a big difference. It hums. The belt even smoothes out. I don't know how that's possible, but the belt actually spun smoother. It cuts like a hot knife thru butter. As I was walking out to my truck from the store, I was saying to myself I can't believe I bough a 100 dollar saw blade. Once I made the first cut, my apprehension disappeared.

Last edited by bigredc; 12-12-2007 at 07:45 AM.
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post #39 of 43 Old 12-12-2007, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dovetailer59 View Post
Hello , Just wanted to jump in real quick , what are the p/n or name of the box joint blades you were refering too ? I want a good set to make box joints on my new table saw . Thanks
As bigredc said, the item number is SBOX8. Here's some more info:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-316-box-...utter-set.aspx
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post #40 of 43 Old 12-13-2007, 12:40 AM
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Freud Blades

Hello , thanks for the info , yes I would be alittle shaken for the 100 bucks , but believe you me , I have had my share of scrap oak , and it will be more than welcome to finally have a great blade . Like I said earlier my new saw is in place and now I'm ready to finally get some projects done . Thanks again .
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