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post #1 of 7 Old 05-30-2008, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Makeing cabinet door Question

Now that I have built my cabinets I need to make the doors. I have never make cabinets or even doors for that matter. However I have to do it anyway. I am going to buy 1 x 2 1/4 birch stock and this is what I am thinking about doing. Using a 1/4 inch router I am going to cut a tenten in each end of the rails and a mortis into the stiles. I have a small router table and every bit under the sun but an Oge bit. And at over $50.00 each I am not going to buy one either. I am thinking of cutting about 1/4 inch off three side of the end of the rails about 1 3/4 inches deep. Then cut a 1/4 groove in the middle of the end of the stile about 1 3/4 deep. Then after the doors are all glued up and dry, I will route the outside of the door with the same 1/2 inch round over bit I used on the drawer fronts. And then route a 1/4 notch into the back inside of the door to recieve a 1/4 inch beeded birch panal in most of the doors and glass in the rest.
I want the tenten to show on the top and botton edge. That will go well with our old farm house style.

Now do you think this will work??

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post #2 of 7 Old 05-30-2008, 07:03 PM
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Is this what you are considering?
.







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post #3 of 7 Old 05-30-2008, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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oops

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Last edited by Handyman; 05-30-2008 at 09:49 PM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 05-30-2008, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
Is this what you are considering?
.









Cabinetman you hit the nail on the head. Yes that is what I am wanting to do.

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post #5 of 7 Old 05-30-2008, 10:39 PM
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If you have a well fitted glued up joint, and the panel is glued into a rabbet in the back of the door, it will be a very sturdy door. For the glass panel, you could just use a small bead of GE clear silicone II, and try not to have it ooze everywhere. It's a PITA to clean up when wet, and when dry, a single edged razor blade works good. I don't believe there is a common solvent that will dissolve it when it's cured.

Or you can use RETAINER CLIPS of which there are many styles.






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post #6 of 7 Old 05-31-2008, 02:29 PM
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When you construct your door I would suggest you use a different width bottom rail, say 1inX 3in. The reason for this is to help prevent twisting. Glue alone may not hold your doors together. I would suggest (as can be seen in most joinery books) a tenon with a haunching. Make your vertical rails longer than the proposed length of the door and glue and wedge the doors. Then cut off the excess on th side rails. The wedges can look quite attractive on the ends of the door. My second suggestion if you are new to this kind of construction, use cheaper soft wood to do a dummy run. There is nothing more annoying than wrecking expensive timber meant for the job. As for using a router for your mortise and tenon joints, you would need to either make a jig its much more accurate or cut these by hand. Drill out majority of the waste with an auger drill and chop out the mortise with a chisel. If you have the use of a a saw bench set up a cross cut for your tenons (Incidently the tenon needs to be stepped on the outer or top and bottom edges). Also use the saw bench to cut your rebates around the doors. Alternatively buy a router door set this will make your door for you, but you do need a stand and heavy duty router. Take your time and watch your finger you dont get a second chance. Best of luck Bruno2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by Handyman View Post
Now that I have built my cabinets I need to make the doors. I have never make cabinets or even doors for that matter. However I have to do it anyway. I am going to buy 1 x 2 1/4 birch stock and this is what I am thinking about doing. Using a 1/4 inch router I am going to cut a tenten in each end of the rails and a mortis into the stiles. I have a small router table and every bit under the sun but an Oge bit. And at over $50.00 each I am not going to buy one either. I am thinking of cutting about 1/4 inch off three side of the end of the rails about 1 3/4 inches deep. Then cut a 1/4 groove in the middle of the end of the stile about 1 3/4 deep. Then after the doors are all glued up and dry, I will route the outside of the door with the same 1/2 inch round over bit I used on the drawer fronts. And then route a 1/4 notch into the back inside of the door to recieve a 1/4 inch beeded birch panal in most of the doors and glass in the rest.
I want the tenten to show on the top and botton edge. That will go well with our old farm house style.

Now do you think this will work??

Last edited by bruno2604; 05-31-2008 at 02:33 PM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-31-2008, 02:49 PM
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This should work just fine for you...
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