Leveling a table top... - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtred9 View Post
Willem, you said you had some suggestions on attaching the top to the carcase? Hopefully I am using that term correctly. Right now I am thinking of slotting the apron and using z clips... that seems easiest.

At this point, if I were to remove the clamps from my top, would the piece be strong enough to sustain itself as one piece? All I did was glue using Gorilla Glue. Basically it is flat surface glued to flat surface. Do I need to do anything else to secure the 3 top pieces together?

Since I want a rustic, western look, I am thinking of planing the top and then sanding, hoping it comes out a little imperfect.

Going to pick that book up today at lunch that was suggested in the other thread.
Z clips sound fine.

Edge gluing is stronger than the wood itself, but I have never used Gorilla Glue before. Any experience from other folks??

Good luck with the planing, sounds fun.
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post #22 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 12:35 PM
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What kind of Gorilla did ya use? Urethane (foamy one) or white wood glue?

They are both sufficient for what your doing, I don't recommend the urethane version for much though because its such a mess.

Do not add battens / cross strips to the table as it will cause the table to crack with seasonal changed by not allowing expansion / contraction. Edge glued is very strong. Allow at least 12 hrs clamp time for a large / thick table prior to removing the clamps. If you have even full coverage of glue on the edges the glue will outlast the wood and be stronger.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #23 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Just took a quick trip to HD during lunch. Looked all over for Z clips and they didn't have any. Are these a specialty item? Am I looking in the wrong place?

Did find a Buck Bros #7 plane and bought an extra blade, so going to work on the table top tonight.
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post #24 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtred9
Just took a quick trip to HD during lunch. Looked all over for Z clips and they didn't have any. Are these a specialty item? Am I looking in the wrong place?

Did find a Buck Bros #7 plane and bought an extra blade, so going to work on the table top tonight.
You sure its not a #5? Be sure to sharpen the blade first, it's not usable out of the box. There's a lot more to do to make it work better but at least sharpen the blade. If you have trouble with that I have a couple BB blades for that plane floating around my shop... I'll trade ya via post for a sharp one to get ya started.

Neither lowes nor HD carry Z clips to my knowledge. Try Rockler.com

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #25 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Tom, I think it's a G2. I actually didn't see a # on it, but pretty sure it said 7", so assumed that meant #7. Wanna say the blade is a PL158.

I'm assuming that sharpening one of those blades is like sharpening a knife, correct? Can't be too difficult?
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post #26 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtred9
Tom, I think it's a G2. I actually didn't see a # on it, but pretty sure it said 7", so assumed that meant #7. Wanna say the blade is a PL158.

I'm assuming that sharpening one of those blades is like sharpening a knife, correct? Can't be too difficult?
Ahhh... That's a lil block plane. That may not be too efficient for a table top. As for sharpening - yes the principles are the same but wow are they different. LOL you ever sharpen a straight edge razor?

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #27 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 05:22 PM
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LOL you ever sharpen a straight edge razor?
Or, a guillotine blade?








.
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post #28 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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So I should take it back? Do hardware stores and HD sell bigger planers?

Sorry for the dumb questions. Obviously over my head here...
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post #29 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 08:24 PM
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No, don't panic. Depot does sell a BB plane roughly the size of a #5 (about 14" long and has a 2" wide blade). That same plane was the first plane I ever purchased. It's not too great but with some work can be decent. I learned the fundamentals of tuning a plane on it. I ended up giving it to one of the young members here with the hand tool bug. I won't buy another, but let's back up a bit.

I think all WW's should have a hand plane or two but you may not need a pane at all for this table depending on how your glue-up went. Can you post some pictures of the table top? You may just need some sanding to get it done especially if your going for 'rustic'. Pictures would go a long way in us helping you.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #30 of 37 Old 11-30-2011, 09:17 PM
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a little terminolgy here

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtred9 View Post
So I should take it back? Do hardware stores and HD sell bigger planers?

Sorry for the dumb questions. Obviously over my head here...
There are "planers" and hand "planes" or powered vs non-powered.
It's best to use the right terms to avoid confusion.
Then there's a jounter/planer, Europe speak for a jointer.
The full description is actually "thickness planer", most of us just call it a planer. Hope this helps! bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #31 of 37 Old 12-01-2011, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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This is the table...
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post #32 of 37 Old 12-01-2011, 01:37 AM
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Looks great!

You've done a fine job. That's some nice wood you got there also. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #33 of 37 Old 12-01-2011, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the compliments.

But now I am second guessing myself on how to level the top and attach the carcase.

Should I just sand instead of plane?

I bought Z clips last night and are going to use those to attach the top, but not quite sure how the apron / leg structure should work.
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post #34 of 37 Old 12-01-2011, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtred9
Appreciate the compliments.

But now I am second guessing myself on how to level the top and attach the carcase.

Should I just sand instead of plane?

I bought Z clips last night and are going to use those to attach the top, but not quite sure how the apron / leg structure should work.
The glue-up looks like it went well. If the table is pretty flat, there's no shame in just sanding it smooth. It's your first table! Be proud of this one and challenge your self more as you go. Besides you could always cone back to it down the road and flatten it and refinish it.

As for the apron and legs, did you buy the book I had recommended? You mentioned you were going to... It's got a lot of construction diagrams for table design and I really think it's a great starting point for people looking to understand furniture and cabinet design. I've built quite a few pieces over the yrs... but I STILL pull that book down if I'm starting a build of something I don't do often.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #35 of 37 Old 12-03-2011, 12:11 PM
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Rustic means alot of different things to different people....to me it means hand hewn "cabin" furniture.....with this in mind I would ,if it was me,use a flap sander in a grinder. this will remove material very very very quick so you have to move fast and keep moving but it will knock down the uneven mating edges and put alot of "rustic" character into the top. as for the attach to carcass deal go with the guys above input, they wont steer you wrong

in the future I would think twice about edge gluing that thick of yellow pine......splines and battens without glue would be fine and be more intune with the rustic idea

lawrence

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post #36 of 37 Old 12-16-2011, 11:28 PM
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Making any progress with your table?

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......
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post #37 of 37 Old 12-18-2011, 05:06 PM
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Sanding with a good belt sander NAND starting with coarse grits and moving up through the grits would level quickly and well if a wide planer was not available. Hand planing has worked for years but takes a good plane and a lot of work.
--
This is a good top to address the thread of widest board for glue up. The pictures show well that the board were cut from a tree of only 12 inches or so in diameter or near the centre of a wider tree. The growth rings show a small radius tree. The movement to flatten the rings with drying will be substantial although the softwood moves a bit less. These are the boards that do well being cut to 3-4 inches in width then alternating the ring direction in glue up. The slightly wavy surface when the moisture content changes will not be very noticeable in a "rustic" table and with the narrow pine or spruce boards.
Wide boards are best quarter cut or only used if from large trees with as close to flat growth rings as possible.
I apologise from my somewhat clumsy entry in the other thread. Trying to cover too much information in a few lines is risky.
Good luck with the table flattening. The s clips or buttons should work fine as mentioned.
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