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Jointing long boards
have some long boards I need jointed. great difficulty with a jointer. so my question is can I use a piece of my 2.5x2.5x10 14 gage square tubing as an edge guide for a router and a straight bit? its new and has been stored laying down.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidGAOutdoor
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have some long boards I need jointed. great difficulty with a jointer. so my question is can I use a piece of my 2.5x2.5x10 14 gage square tubing as an edge guide for a router and a straight bit? its new and has been stored laying down.
a friend of mine has a big 18 inch jack plane.....the boards only have to be 6ft long that was just what the steel came in
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It's not unreasonable to joint 6' on a jointer. I could do 10' on my smaller jointer but it wouldn't be easy. I also modified it to handle longer wood.
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve Neul For This Useful Post: | Tennessee Tim (01-31-2016) |
I could joint a 6' foot board no problem in my 8" jointer.
6' doesnt seem like that much of a problem to me either, assuming your jointer isnt tiny. At any rate though, theres no reason you couldnt use the router and a straight edge, assuming the edge was actually straight.
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I would think you would want something thinner and wider for a straight edge, can't see using something that high.
The factory edge of a sheet of plywood is generally acceptable.
The factory edge of a sheet of plywood is generally acceptable.
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato
FrankC
http://sawdustmaking.com
http://woodworkerglossary.com
I made a sled for my table saw to cut straight edges on rough stock that is bowed. It works well.
Note: The sled rides against the fence. That makes it easy to adjust the cutting width to match the stock, thus minimizing waste.
Note: The sled rides against the fence. That makes it easy to adjust the cutting width to match the stock, thus minimizing waste.
The Following User Says Thank You to MT Stringer For This Useful Post: | Tony B (01-30-2016) |
I totally agree with MT's sled.
I have been using something similar for the last 30 years.
Makes you become a 'hold-down' junkie
I have been using something similar for the last 30 years.
Makes you become a 'hold-down' junkie
Tony B
Retired woodworker, amongst other things, Sold full time cruising boat and now full time cruising in RV. Currently in Somerville, Tx
I got it done on jointer. I was overthinking it
Good deal..
Do you have any roller supports?
Next time this comes up .......
I'm not a big fan of these in general, because they have to be set slightly lower then the level of the machine, so that the work won't bump them and knock them over..... So, I came up with this idea which allows you to level them out exactly with the machine surface:
Get some el-cheapo roller stands. These are from H-F for about $14.99.
Remove the rollers and replace them with a 2" x 12" plank on either side of the table, assuming you have 4 stands, or just use 2 of them on the outfeed side.
To remove the rollers from the stands just push in on the pin, it's springloaded, and the roller will pop out.
Bevel the leading edge of the plank to ensure better feeding. Level them out with a long straight edge off the outfeed table.
This approach saves floor space because you can fold the stands up and store them and stash the plank where ever...

I'm not a big fan of these in general, because they have to be set slightly lower then the level of the machine, so that the work won't bump them and knock them over..... So, I came up with this idea which allows you to level them out exactly with the machine surface:
Get some el-cheapo roller stands. These are from H-F for about $14.99.
Remove the rollers and replace them with a 2" x 12" plank on either side of the table, assuming you have 4 stands, or just use 2 of them on the outfeed side.
To remove the rollers from the stands just push in on the pin, it's springloaded, and the roller will pop out.
Bevel the leading edge of the plank to ensure better feeding. Level them out with a long straight edge off the outfeed table.
This approach saves floor space because you can fold the stands up and store them and stash the plank where ever...



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Last edited by woodnthings; 01-31-2016 at 04:46 AM.
Senior Member
No need to wreck a good set of rollers that you may need need for another job, just fasten some cleats on the bottom of the plank to hold it in place.
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato
FrankC
http://sawdustmaking.com
http://woodworkerglossary.com
Whatchu talkin' 'bout Willis?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC
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No need to wreck a good set of rollers that you may need need for another job, just fasten some cleats on the bottom of the plank to hold it in place.
No need for cleats on the plank when there's no rollers AND it's more stable and easier to adjust the heights.
The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
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The dang rollers just "pop out" by pushing in the end.... no wrecking required. Have you removed any of these type rollers yourself? If so, you would know how easy it is to remove them. They can be plugged back in instantly.
No need for cleats on the plank when there's no rollers AND it's more stable and easier to adjust the heights.
No need for cleats on the plank when there's no rollers AND it's more stable and easier to adjust the heights.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato
FrankC
http://sawdustmaking.com
http://woodworkerglossary.com
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