Yes, there is a best way... Good edge jointing and glue. The rest is all pointless.
Tom, don't hold back, tell us how you really feel..
+1 with Tom.
Titebond I, II or III is fine.
You just want joint the edges to be straight and fit together with no gaps. You may be able to clamp to close a gap, but it puts stress on the joint and may eventually fail.
If the boards have a dip or a crown, then use cauls to get them aligned, or dowels.
I have seen a lot of red cedar chests with big cracks, even replaced a chest top for a friend last year. This was her grandmothers, or some old family member. I think this was due to the wood loosing moisture in some location over the years and then no surprise cracks can happen.
If you have just purchased the wood, let it sit for a few weeks to get closer to the shop moisture level.
Most of us do not have a moisture meter, but a poor man's moisture meter, is to cut off a test piece, e.g., 1ft and weigh it on an accurate scale. Once it stops losing or gaining weight the wood is at your shop moisture level.