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post #1 of 7 Old 03-19-2011, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Joint ?

A noob ? for you all. Im going to be starting a Headboard,footboard project soon,, I found some free basic plans for my first project.. all the joints are butted and screwed,, IMO from reading here those will be a weak point,, so I want to mortise and tenon the headborad and footboard, and dado slots for the boards on the headboard,, (Farm house syle.. I will be using pine to start so my mistakes wont cost alot :).. Then this will go to spare room ,Ill be making 3 sets of different styles..as I learn
the question is what is the ruel of thumb in the lenght of a tenon and mortise joint? so I know how much longer to cut my boards.
If you have thread links that would be GREAT.... Im searching the thread s as well for past related posts..
Thanks
Rich
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-19-2011, 09:36 PM
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rule of thumbs

about 1/3 the thickness on the material.

Why Pine? cheap and available? I wouldn't. Poplar would be much better and if you want to stain it, it won't look bad. Most everyone starts out with Pine then only to find out it's a bugger to stain evenly. Even paint is an issue, if there are any knots. Read up on finishing pine before you start, I think you will agree. bill


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 7 Old 03-19-2011, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
about 1/3 the thickness on the material.

Why Pine? cheap and available? I wouldn't. Poplar would be much better and if you want to stain it, it won't look bad. Most everyone starts out with Pine then only to find out it's a bugger to stain evenly. Even paint is an issue, if there are any knots. Read up on finishing pine before you start, I think you will agree. bill

YouTube - PINE with Charles Neil
Poplar Thats a great idea..I think there is a mill fairly close!!! Ill save the pine for my practice cuts..I want to only screw up the cheap stuff LOL.... I am goint to paint this one.. But future ones will be stained,once I learn how to make al the proper cuts

Thanks for the link
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Agree with the 1/3 thickness. Depth is up to you, deeper is better without going through the other side. The strength of the joint is in part related to the depth of the mortise. Shoulders, while not a significant glue surface, prevent wracking and should be part of the design. Glad you abandoned the screws.
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-23-2011, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TGRANT View Post
Agree with the 1/3 thickness. Depth is up to you, deeper is better without going through the other side. The strength of the joint is in part related to the depth of the mortise. Shoulders, while not a significant glue surface, prevent wracking and should be part of the design. Glad you abandoned the screws.
THANKYOU for the info..Im thinking alittle more strength is better for a bed as they are not allways used for sleeping :)
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-23-2011, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Radco

THANKYOU for the info..Im thinking alittle more strength is better for a bed as they are not allways used for sleeping :)
That's for sure...great place to watch TV :)
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-24-2011, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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That's for sure...great place to watch TV :)
LOL yea watching TV is another option for action park
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