Joining without fasteners. - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 56 Old 07-23-2012, 08:42 PM
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Id you have your dovetail jig set up right then there should be very little variation. I make my sockets a bit deep and my pins a bit tight. I put glue in the socket and then insert the pins and put a block on the joint and whack it with a mallet until they are flush. They are tight enough that I don't use clamps.

I use a sander.

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post #42 of 56 Old 07-23-2012, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Id you have your dovetail jig set up right then there should be very little variation. I make my sockets a bit deep and my pins a bit tight. I put glue in the socket and then insert the pins and put a block on the joint and whack it with a mallet until they are flush. They are tight enough that I don't use clamps.

I use a sander.

Sander, okay, what grits. Do you successively go up in the grain?

Also, thanks SO much, i appreciate all the kind replies and i can't wait to put the knowledge to good use!

And btw i checked out your site, you do fabulous work!
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post #43 of 56 Old 07-23-2012, 08:55 PM
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I do most of mine with 150 grit. Sometimes I need to go to 120 for the top and bottom.

Thanks.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #44 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lateralus819 View Post
Hello, I'm quite new to woodworking, (just bought roundover bits for my router today and tried those out)

I'm currently embarking on a new project of building a new headshell for my guitar amplifier out of flamed maple 25x10x9.5. I'd like to join in such a way that there is NO fasteners, at least visible, how would i do this with limited knowledge and tools?

The only idea i had was glue blocks but i'd rather not have anything that may get in the way of components. thanks.!
There are a LOT of different answers to your question, so just let me fire off a few at you.

Box Joints.
Half Blind Dovetails.
Through Dovetails.
Mortise and Tenon.
Mortise and Loose Tenon.
Biscuits.
Rabbet and Dado.
Splined miters.
Dowelled Butt joint.
Pocket screws from the inside.

None of the joints listed above use metal fasteners except pocket hole screws. Dovetails are probably the hardest to do, but also the strongest.

The most common joint I have seen done on amplifier casings is box joints. Common, solid joint.

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post #45 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 04:01 PM
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The pictures help. This is what I call a butt joint. Sides will butt end-grain to the top and bottom face grain.

I think the tongue and groove is easy enough to do on the table saw.

This is not to scale.

Attachment 48099

Cut e.g., 3/8in wide x 3/8in deep on each piece.

If you want to buy a jig, I would say a box joint jig would work for you. Poor mans dovetail.
That joint is what I have always heard called "Rabbet and Dado".

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #46 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so today i got lucky and found some maple stock at work about 4" wide 3/4 thick. Cut off 7"x4" pieces to test.

All the cuts we're pretty clean and went smoothly. Problem arose when I went to put them together.

It seemed kind of tight but i was dilligent with my hammer applying even pressure across the whole board, got it sealed tight, turned it over and one peg broke..(Btw i tried making them "looser" according to the gauge, seemed a tad better, also note: with the pegs broke off, i noticed the remaining pegs left in the pin board could EASILY slide in and out which makes me believe the fitment is perfect.

Now My thinking was that the reason it actually broke was because instead of the grain running vertically with the tails, it was running horizontally. Would that make sense?

It's getting down to the wire now, my flamed maple board came in and it is STUNNING. I'm getting nervous but yet I'm still confident in myself..

I also picked up a nice piece of paduk to accent!
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post #47 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Just did another test, didnt get any breakage, not sure if its because i made the bit lower thus loosening the joint or if i just got lucky!..

Also, any tips to reduce tearout on the Pins??

I've eliminated tearout on the tails with a backerboard that works great. Now to stop the pins.
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post #48 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:06 PM
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What jig are you using. Is it one that you do the boards separately or one corner at a time?

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #49 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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What jig are you using. Is it one that you do the boards separately or one corner at a time?
It's the EZ dovetailer pro from home depot. $40 jig...And yes one board at a time.
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post #50 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:12 PM
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That's your issue right there. Never used one of those. I have a pretty inexpensive jig, a Reliant. I paid $70 for it but it was probably 2 decades ago.

Pretty close these

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CHcQ8wIwAg

https://store.schoolspecialty.com/OA...64&item=351433

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/TD...155_f0723_0228

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com

Last edited by Leo G; 07-24-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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post #51 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Also i must note, the bit i am using is the one that came with the Jig so i can only imagine it isnt of the highest quality. I did buy a new dovetail bit from home depot but, it didn't come with a bearing and the ones off the other bit wouldn't go over the "paint" on the bit.
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post #52 of 56 Old 07-24-2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Gee, if homedepot has one of those doodads i may get one. This non-sense of doing them separate stinks!
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post #53 of 56 Old 07-26-2012, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well quick update guys!

The enclosure is finally glued and clamped!!

The doves came out perfect, no tearout or blemishes. I had one minor tweak i had to make the pins a little longer but i sorted it and it looks LOVELY. i can't thank you guys enough. I'll post some updated pics in a few days.
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post #54 of 56 Old 07-26-2012, 10:10 PM
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Did you use your original dovetail jig or did you splurge and get another one?

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #55 of 56 Old 07-26-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lateralus819 View Post
Well quick update guys!

The enclosure is finally glued and clamped!!

The doves came out perfect, no tearout or blemishes. I had one minor tweak i had to make the pins a little longer but i sorted it and it looks LOVELY. i can't thank you guys enough. I'll post some updated pics in a few days.
Great I've got that little dovetailer also. Actually a lot easier to use than my Rockler jig. Did you use it on a router table or clamped to the bench? You can use it either way..

John

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post #56 of 56 Old 07-27-2012, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Did you use your original dovetail jig or did you splurge and get another one?
The original. I tried finding a Porter cable but couldn't. But it worked out great. I
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