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post #21 of 26 Old 11-18-2013, 11:52 PM
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If you joint the edges true and smooth so the boards fit together with no gaps and you use a good wood glue Like Titebond and you clamp the wood properly, the joint should be stronger than the actual wood grain around it.
I beg to differ. Yellow glues are NOT stronger than the wood it's self. Just because when it breaks it has wood on both sides of the joint doesn't mean anything. titebond and their ink have a very soft glue line and do not hold up under stress. That's why you have to joint them very close for them to hold for any length of time. If you want to glue interior furniture use hot hide glue. It has a very hard glue line. Hide glue is so strong is can be used to chip the surface of GLASS. The high end woodworking schools are mostly moving back to hide glue. The old timers were pretty sharp and smart.
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post #22 of 26 Old 11-19-2013, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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The dowel suggestion seems like a winner for me! The wood is 3/4" thick so should I use a 1/2" dowel about 2"-3" long? Or just long enough to go into the larger meat of the wood?
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post #23 of 26 Old 11-19-2013, 09:51 AM
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The dowel suggestion seems like a winner for me! The wood is 3/4" thick so should I use a 1/2" dowel about 2"-3" long? Or just long enough to go into the larger meat of the wood?
When I use dowels, I usually don't go bigger than 1/3 the thickness of the stock. So in your case 1/4". The length only needs to be long enough to reinforce the weakest part. What your doing is repairing before it breaks!
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post #24 of 26 Old 11-19-2013, 12:03 PM
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Please don't get me wrong. Your project is very nice. In all reality, it will probably never break. Having been a furniture maker for many years, I had to make sure that all the pieces I designed and built held up to any and all stress. I had a few pieces come back, ones that had been put through mental hospital, night club, or college dorm use...in other words, tested by gorillas. I know a little bit about how furniture breaks so I was just passing on some advice to you for future projects.

As for the glue joint that somebody commented on. I have see glued up panels split due to humidity shrinkage in winter, here in Minnesota. Not one of them has let loose or cracked along a glue joint. Fine Woodworking Magazine did a test of several kinds of glue for joint strength, including hide glue and aliphatic resin (Titebond) glue. Aliphatic resin had the strongest holding power.
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post #25 of 26 Old 11-19-2013, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Please don't get me wrong. Your project is very nice. In all reality, it will probably never break. Having been a furniture maker for many years, I had to make sure that all the pieces I designed and built held up to any and all stress. I had a few pieces come back, ones that had been put through mental hospital, night club, or college dorm use...in other words, tested by gorillas. I know a little bit about how furniture breaks so I was just passing on some advice to you for future projects.

As for the glue joint that somebody commented on. I have see glued up panels split due to humidity shrinkage in winter, here in Minnesota. Not one of them has let loose or cracked along a glue joint. Fine Woodworking Magazine did a test of several kinds of glue for joint strength, including hide glue and aliphatic resin (Titebond) glue. Aliphatic resin had the strongest holding power.

No, I want to thank you for the observation. Like I said, I'm new to woodworking and always have an open mind. This is for a co-workers daughter and you never know, she could be standing on the top step and get excited and jump up and down. A simple pre-fix could prevent me have to repair it down the road.

Now Im looking into getting one of those self centering dowel jigs. Anyone have any experience with this one? The only disadvantage I can see (if it is one) is that it doesn't do 7/16" and 1/2". http://www.amazon.com/Task-07300TK-Premium-Doweling-Jig/dp/B000K9PL14/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t "EDIT"** disregard I found the info in another thread, good to use the search feature :)

Last edited by Dopalgangr; 11-19-2013 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Found info in another thread
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post #26 of 26 Old 11-20-2013, 10:49 AM
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I have that doweling jig. It works great for pieces up to about 2" wide, where the dowel is centered. On your rabbit stool, it would work for the dowels at the ends of the steps, but not for the receiving ends in the rabbit body. It would work for the joint when gluing up the panel for the rabbit body, to align the boards, but it is not a necessity, and you might run into a dowel when cutting out the shape, which would look ugly.

The doweling jig is great for cabinet face frames and some furniture situations. There are some other doweling jigs which can be adapted to more uses. I have not used them, though.
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