Joining multiple 4x4 pressure treated lumber together - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 09:53 AM
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unfortunately, one factor is the PT 4x4, typically cut from the center of the tree. and I have not seen a board cut from the center of a tree that has not split. so, the 4x4's are very likely going to split.


since they have the center of the tree, they are virtually quarter sawn, and should not deviate greatly from their size - after the initial drying/shrinking period. if you are setting the end posts in concrete. they do like to twist... I would vote for the threaded rod idea as well.
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post #22 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 10:35 AM
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My experience--I put up a trellis along side our deck almost ten years ago. Three 12' long PT 4x4s. Each one went into a hole, spaced 6' or 7' apart, about 20" deep that had a couple inches of gravel at the bottom, then I filled the rest with concrete. No signs of rot or decay yet.
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post #23 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 10:45 AM
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I am Old School about mailboxes. I believe they should be set in gravel and not too deep so they can be knocked down by a speeding motorcycle without killing the driver. Just my 2 cents.
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post #24 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
That is interesting. Anywhere I have ever lived it is normal practice to place the pressure treated 4x4 post directly in concrete when putting up a fence. They last many, many a year doing this.


I wonder just why the soil( or whatever?) is different in you area.


George
Good question. I live in Southern California. All I know is that the posts rot in the concrete at the concrete line and below it. After a few bad experiences with that, we learned to use the metal tie products in the cases like the OP's.
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post #25 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 11:51 AM
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For a project like this no concrete is necessary, the posts aren't going to go any where. When you do use concrete for fence posts the top of the concrete should be slopped away from the post so any water will run away from the post and not pool up around the post.

Ten years ago a young couple had their wedding in our backyard, the prospective groom and I threw a pagoda together with PT 2X4 uprights for the entrance. We dug four post holes and set the pagoda in them and filled with soil. It was meant to be temporary, yet it is still standing today covered in grape vines.

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post #26 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay C. White Cloud View Post
Simply brilliant...!!!...Good JOB!!!

I wish more folks (especially professionals) took the time to learn wood and grain patterns as it applies to the craft.

I'm virtually only a traditionalist in my work, so the coloring and finishes I would have spec'd for a project like that would have you using traditional oils, waxes and plant resins and probably blending your own pigments...LMAO...!!!

Would love to collaborate sometime if you still in "the game?" I'm suppose to be in Katy Texas in the next six months finishing a project. Where are you in relationship to there?
I am in Nacogdoches. This next phase of my life I do commercial construction. I don't have the headaches and I can do my own thing when I want to. The company I work for is not far from Katy. It was 2 companies merged into one last year. I am completing a few years of work up this way and then I will probably be down there for good.


First thing is to get this house I'm in back in order. And my shop of course. I would love to come look at your project though. Do you do a lot of work in Texas?
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post #27 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay C. White Cloud View Post
I wish more folks (especially professionals) took the time to learn wood and grain patterns as it applies to the craft.
I have my father to thank for this one mostly. He grew up logging with mules and ox. He told me when I was a teen that horizontal siding is the enemy.

"A dead tree will last almost forever while its standing. Once it falls it will take less than 5 years to rot."


He had a lot of old school knowledge that you just cant find easy elsewhere. Too much to list here today lol.
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post #28 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mreynolds7714 View Post
I am in Nacogdoches. This next phase of my life I do commercial construction. I don't have the headaches and I can do my own thing when I want to. The company I work for is not far from Katy. It was 2 companies merged into one last year. I am completing a few years of work up this way and then I will probably be down there for good.


First thing is to get this house I'm in back in order. And my shop of course. I would love to come look at your project though. Do you do a lot of work in Texas?
Boy...that's close...!!! Only about 2.5 hours away...

That area of Texas is exploding with work. We talk about it all the time and get projects down their on average of 1 every other year, but only because of not "marketing" better in that area...

Send me an email sometime, and if you have a LinkedIn account, connect with me there too!
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post #29 of 32 Old 02-25-2019, 10:53 PM
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We can buy dry concrete mix in 40 lb bags, just add water and stir.
But we don't.
Square up the posts in the holes and fill and pack with DRY "bag-mix."
Soil moisture does the rest.
BUT,
you get a solid lattice with air-gap voids for water drainage!
Nothing moves in our storms which will toss freight-pallet tables across the yard.
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post #30 of 32 Old 02-26-2019, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Red face Threaded Bolt Issue

I really appreciate all of the advice so far and have worked my plans to include may of your suggestions, but I am stumped on an issue that has arisen. I created recessed space for the bolts, washers, and nuts and got the rods through all the wood. I've tightened up the rods, but now have access rod sticking out. Despite my best efforts I cannot figure out how to cut the darn rod so that it actually in the recess. I could really use some suggestions. My hack saw will only make the bolt level with the wood it won't actually make it below the rim.
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post #31 of 32 Old 02-26-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by EggNoggStick View Post
I really appreciate all of the advice so far and have worked my plans to include may of your suggestions, but I am stumped on an issue that has arisen. I created recessed space for the bolts, washers, and nuts and got the rods through all the wood. I've tightened up the rods, but now have access rod sticking out. Despite my best efforts I cannot figure out how to cut the darn rod so that it actually in the recess. I could really use some suggestions. My hack saw will only make the bolt level with the wood it won't actually make it below the rim.
mark the cut line, or measure from the end. pull it back apart, cut, reassemble.


a hacksaw cut tends to booger up the threads. I typically place a nut on the rod before cutting. then cut. run a file at a 45 degree angle around the cut end/threads to remove any burrs resulting from the cut. then spin the nut off - tends to help with any stubborn damaged threads
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post #32 of 32 Old 02-26-2019, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EggNoggStick View Post
I really appreciate all of the advice so far and have worked my plans to include may of your suggestions, but I am stumped on an issue that has arisen. I created recessed space for the bolts, washers, and nuts and got the rods through all the wood. I've tightened up the rods, but now have access rod sticking out. Despite my best efforts I cannot figure out how to cut the darn rod so that it actually in the recess. I could really use some suggestions. My hack saw will only make the bolt level with the wood it won't actually make it below the rim.
All you would have to do is measure how much too long the rods are and cut that much off. You shouldn't be using the rods to assemble the wood, that should be done with clamps. The rods are just suppose to hold back the stress if one or more of the posts warp and try to pull away later.
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