Joining cut down 2x4's with tongue and groove/ Vaneer Glue - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-18-2014, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Joining cut down 2x4's with tongue and groove/ Vaneer Glue

Im cutting down regular 2x4's to a final dimension of 1.25" x 3" to be joined end to end to create surfaces. I want to join them with tongue and grooves. My question to everyone here, which do you think is stronger? 2 - 5/16 tongue and grooves at 5/16" deep or 1 - 1/2" at 1/2" deep? I am using an older craftsman table saw that i have ever so nearly set up to make pefect cuts. The jig i made to cut the tongues and grooves is kind of not perfect. Pretty good but not perfect. This is leaving me with little gaps etc in the joint. Everything need to fit together perfectly. As one big piece. I thinking it would be a lot easier to do 1 tongue and groove but 2 tongues and grooves seems stronger. Ultimately i need to master a jig to cut multiple tongues and grooves. I dont like being defeated so i might go with 2 and 2. But i wanted to know which you guys thought was stronger?

Also,... whats the best type of glue for creating veneer structures? I made a jig that allows me to cut perfect super thin shims using the table saw with ease. Kind of like a meat slicer. No constantly having to adjust a fence etc. So i cut a ton of these shims because they are so flexible. I want to bend them into crazy shapes and them veneer other pieces to the last effectively building up to a desired shape. I need a glue thats strong but applies easily and evenly. Like with a brush or something. Regular wood glue is thick as hell and hard to coat evenly. Anything out there like what im talking about?
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-19-2014, 06:57 AM
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Since you say, your joints are not perfect & there is slack..and this seems harder than it might need to be, I'm going to suggest a new approach. What if you made a groove in each piece, then cut a long "loose tenon"--loose tongue" You said you can make veneer well..so this would be a snap for you. Enjoy your build, no matter what choice you make.
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-19-2014, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by michelle View Post
Since you say, your joints are not perfect & there is slack..and this seems harder than it might need to be, I'm going to suggest a new approach. What if you made a groove in each piece, then cut a long "loose tenon"--loose tongue" You said you can make veneer well..so this would be a snap for you. Enjoy your build, no matter what choice you make.
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-19-2014, 08:27 AM
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For joining stock end to end it is tough to beat half laps. You do need to cut the individual pieces longer to accommodate them though. or, use more pieces..

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-19-2014, 12:36 PM
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First time I read this I assumed you were joining the boards end to end to make a longer board, then rereading it appeared that they were edge to edge to make a wide panel, can you elaborate?

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post #6 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys. Yes im making large sufaces for a desk and a kitchen table. So edge to edge. I think i will have to post some pics. So you can see where im at right now. I think i know what i have to do. Was just wondering what you thought was stronger when it came to tongue and groove size. Also, i posted a video of myself cutting the super thing veneer strips if you guys want to check it out. Its cool.

http://youtu.be/dENCzWmdILk
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 06:27 AM
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We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retired…from what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post.

For an edge to edge gluing, just joint the mating edges to be flat and 90° to the faces. Use glue, clamps and cauls (to keep the boards flat to each other).






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post #8 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by civ View Post
Sorry guys. Yes im making large sufaces for a desk and a kitchen table. So edge to edge. I think i will have to post some pics. So you can see where im at right now. I think i know what i have to do. Was just wondering what you thought was stronger when it came to tongue and groove size. Also, i posted a video of myself cutting the super thing veneer strips if you guys want to check it out. Its cool.
Two things:
1) Won't find my fingers anywhere near the blade like you show in your video. That's what push sticks are for. Saves on fingers.

2) - What he said:
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For an edge to edge gluing, just joint the mating edges to be flat and 90° to the faces. Use glue, clamps and cauls (to keep the boards flat to each other).
]

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post #9 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 07:55 AM
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If you are going to cut veneer strips like that you need a wider board, a push stick, a shirt and some kind of guard over the blade. You have your hands way too close to the blade.

You can't really achieve any strength gluing wood together end to end using a tongue and groove. You would need the equipment to finger joint and even then I consider it sub-standard. I don't buy any 2x4's or molding which has been finger jointed. The joints often fail or at least show the seams from wood movement. If you are going to do it I would make single tenons 1/2 thick and as long as you can make them.
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If you are going to cut veneer strips like that you need a wider board, a push stick, a shirt and some kind of guard over the blade. You have your hands way too close to the blade.

You can't really achieve any strength gluing wood together end to end using a tongue and groove. You would need the equipment to finger joint and even then I consider it sub-standard. I don't buy any 2x4's or molding which has been finger jointed. The joints often fail or at least show the seams from wood movement. If you are going to do it I would make single tenons 1/2 thick and as long as you can make them.
It's not an end to end. It's edges to edges.







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post #11 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Yes edges to edges. Not end to end. Anyways,... Yes I get my fingers close to the blade. I am comfortable doing that. It's not for everyone. When I get real close I use pushing sticks. The smallest remaining piece I had while cutting veneer strips was .129". Yes I used a pushing stick for that. I have been working with machines like this for a long time. A long time. Never once have I been cut at all. I am a bit dangerous with some of the thing I do but I am very thorough and everything is well thought out. So far so good. I don't recommend what I do so dont do what I do. Anyways. Looking at a test piece I have made,... the tongue and grooves are slightly off angle. I need a better jig so everything is EXACTLY 90 degrees.

Anyone have any suggestions for an easy to apply and spread evenly type glue for making veneer structures using strips?2 Regular wood glue is a pain for applying evenly without it drying and also adding to much. I need something a bit thinner and can be applied with a some kind of small brush. In a perfect world.
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post #12 of 13 Old 05-20-2014, 01:19 PM
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wood glue thinned with a bit of water?
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post #13 of 13 Old 05-21-2014, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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You can do that?
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