Joining 3/8" stock - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Joining 3/8" stock

I am making the tops to some box lids and need to join 3/8" stock. I normally cut tongue and groove joints with my router to make panels, but am having trouble finding bits that will work with 3/8" stock. Do any of you know where I might find bits that would work for this application? Thanks for your help and advice this is my first posting here.
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post #2 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 07:56 PM
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Welcome!

Is there any reason you could simply edge glue it? It's more than strong enough.
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 08:32 PM
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+1 with Firemedic. Do not spend the time for a T & G joint. This would work, but is a lot of trouble for no real benefit.

You do not state how wide the boards are, but I would just glue these together. After the glue sets this would be as strong as the T & G.

The 3/8in width is sufficient for a strong joint.

The only nuance is alignment. You can achieve this by clamping blocks of wood across the strips. One on top and one on the bottom. Cover with masking tape so they do not stick to the glue.

You do not state the size of the box, but you should not need many clamps.

If the box is short enough you can clamp the entire length of the joint to ensure alignment.
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 08:53 PM
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As the others have pointed out, not really any need but if you really want to a 1/8" slot cutter will do it. Need to make one pass for the groove and two passes for the tongue.

John

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post #5 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 09:47 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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nothing other than glue is needed

Of course accurate straight and square edges!
I glue thin panels all the time 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" using only glue. Here's an example of some thin curved panels I made for a curved top keepsake box:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ke...08/#post107389


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
Welcome!

Is there any reason you could simply edge glue it? It's more than strong enough.
+1. The edges should be jointed so they fit well on a dry fit try. Clamping pressure shouldn't have to be excessive. With clamps slightly off on the edges, they could pull the glue up beyond flat into a crown one way or the other. If cauls are used, that would help to keep the sections flat. I use waxed paper between them and the glue up.





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post #7 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks All!

I wish I had a jointer, but alas, I've had to make do with just using my table saw. No room in my little shop for a jointer. Really I just like the excuse to use my router table but it sounds like just glue will be fine. Thanks everyone.
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 11:12 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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you can use either to joint an edge...

By offsetting the out feed fence on the router table you can edge joint boards.
You can use a straight line jig, or attach a straight edge board to register against the fence on a table saw to straighten and square an edge.
I used one here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/mi...d-build-37911/

You don't "need" a jointer, but they are real handy to have when you get the room. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 17 Old 07-14-2012, 11:54 PM
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3/8" material.

And

You really want to join it T & G.....

If you must,

Put a rip blade in your table saw and cut a centered groove.

Use a sacrificial fence and then cut the tongue.

IMHO, as others have said, edge gluing is as good as anything.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #10 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbwoodcraft View Post
I wish I had a jointer, but alas, I've had to make do with just using my table saw. No room in my little shop for a jointer. Really I just like the excuse to use my router table but it sounds like just glue will be fine. Thanks everyone.
Woodnthings broke the code for you. Just offset one half the fence, either the outfeed side out or the infeed side in a small amount, add a straight bit and you have an edge jointer.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #11 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 07:46 AM
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Here's a You Tube

Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Woodnthings broke the code for you. Just offset one half the fence, either the outfeed side out or the infeed side in a small amount, add a straight bit and you have an edge jointer.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 08:10 AM
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There are several ways to get a "jointed edge" (good fitting mating surfaces). Using a jointer would be one, a tablesaw would be another, and the tablesaw would be an easy and fast way of doing it. But jointing can be done without either a jointer or a tablesaw.

You could do it on a router table. You would need to make a fence specific for jointing, or make a two piece fence, where the sections are adjustable. An easy fence to make would be to use a straight piece of wood, and cover its edge length with 1/32" mica laminate. Then from the center to the left side add another piece of 1/32" mica laminate.

Then in the center using a Forstner bit, drill a hole half the diameter of the bit (1" or larger would be sufficient). IOW, drill a half of a hole. Mount the fence over the router hole center with slots on the sides so it can slide forward or aft on the hole. Take a file to the edge of where the two laminates are and put a slight chamfer, so when the subject slides it won't hit a sharp square edge.

Whatever bit you use...could be ¼" or ¾" straight faced carbide tipped bit (two flute will work), but a ¾" works best compared to a ¼" (less vertical chattering). To align the fence, set the fence so the cutter takes off 1/32", and when it passes the bit (from right to left), gets taken up by the add on thickness on the fence. With the edge of the fence laminated with mica, wood slides very easy, without grabbing.

Or, you can joint without a jointer, tablesaw, or a router table. You can make a shooting board, which is simple and extremely accurate. Shooting boards can do jointing and dress straight edges and miters to fit perfectly. Here are a few how to's:
.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...%20Board4.html
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/...shooting-board
http://www.finewoodworking.com/Commu....aspx?id=28150
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...ingboards.html
http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodw.../#.UAKr8PVTa1c
.
.





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post #13 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 09:19 AM
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Did anyone mention hand tools yet?

You may not even need a monster iron plane like that #8C... Depending on the length of the pieces you could joint em with a jack plane. With a hand plane you could significantly increase the glue surface area if you wanted by jointing them at an angle...

Just a thought, but then again everything is simpler and easier with handtools in my opinion...
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post #14 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 09:25 AM
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Did anyone mention hand tools yet?
I did (a shooting board)...do I win anything?





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post #15 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 11:03 AM
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I did (a shooting board)...do I win anything?
.
Want a sign?

...here's your sign
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post #16 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 02:13 PM
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I've used a router table as a jointer but in a bit different way. I'll set a 1/2" or 3/4" straight cutter about 1/32" narrower than the width of the board then run the board through, against the rotation of the blade. This only works for small boards that are shorter than the length of the router table fence and use a feather board as one slipup and you'll have a wavy edge. Do this to both edges, readjusting the fence another 1/32" for the 2nd edge.

As far a tongue and groove, as many have said, it's not really necessary with good flat edges and enough clamps BUT if you just want to do it for looks, just use the table saw as someone mentioned. 1/8" kerf would be ideal but not essential. Just cut the groove in one board, running the board through once then flipping around and running through again. This makes a groove that's perfectly centered. It's not necessary other than aesthetics. Attach a sacrificial board to the fence, adjust over to the blade then cut the tongue on the other workpiece, adjusting as necessary until the tongue fits snugly. No as complicated as all that sounds and a fairly quick method. Good luck
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post #17 of 17 Old 07-15-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the good ideas.

Lots of good ideas to try folks. I will definitely give the router table and the table saw methods a shot. Thanks again.
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