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post #1 of 17 Old 10-22-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Join Flare Speaker Horns

I'm designing some horns. I want to use black walnut if I can find it. I plan to bend rectangular planks, then cut them in the cross section, and join them. I worked as a cabinet maker for five years, but this joint seems almost impossible. Ideas? Other than alternatives?
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post #2 of 17 Old 10-22-2019, 10:21 PM
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Speaker horn design ......




The shape of the horns I'm familiar with look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PH39...a-448456630782


Bending is the best way to achieve that shape and is the strongest.
Forms will be required to bend the thin material and heat or steam may be required to prevent splitting. All these techniques are available on You Tube videos. Check them out and post photos of your progress.
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-22-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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More like the top one, without the extra bits(legs). Flare in x and z in y.
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 02:57 PM
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probably won't have any success at bending any solid wood: fresh cut yesterday or dried
you could cut segment curves, glue them up and sand to achieve the desired results

or buy your lumber at home depot, most of the lumber i see there is warped that bad
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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plan was to laminate a plank, plane it down to 3/8". then bend. to get the most effective joint adhesion. cutting angled joints was a possibility, but i don't see how you'd get a good clamp. same with the y seem. in the y i'd jig the sides down and clamp the top then the bottom no problem, but how well could something like that hold. resonance is a design issue.
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post #6 of 17 Old 10-23-2019, 08:05 PM
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maybe something can be learned from these ....

These videos showed up on my search for speaker horns:




I don't think gluing up a panel then trying to bend it will work. You should glue up the shapes using narrow strips bent over the forms, then assemble the symmetrical sides and top and bottom. The intersections can be fitted precisely enough for a strong glue bond.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 12:40 AM
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An ex-audioplhile here ........

A Seeburg juke box was my intro to audio speakers when I was about 13 years old. I graduated to a 25 watt PA amp and an Electrovice SP15 mounted to a piece of plywood in the front closet door frame. It could vibrate the entire 33 unit apartment complex. I turned it up when the firemen came to put out a fire in the downstairs apartment. The William Tell Overture was the music of the night.
My speakers of choice today are EV 18 subs driven by a Kenwood 400 watt per channel amp. That combination will give you a new appreciation for sound. Unfortunately, my hearing isn't what it used to be. Bass still sounds the same, but high end treble isn't there.

I'll be keeping a watch on this thread for sure.

https://www.lifewire.com/vintage-horn-speakers-3135115

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-24-2019 at 12:46 AM.
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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i mean. i'll have access to a cnc mill one way or another. the speaker design will be in cad--currently working on the physics. so i can rotate it on the machine, drop the bed to finish it off regardless. i guess i could join matchsticks flat @90 against each edge and shifted, and then finish. i like that. i guess i could fit the top and bottom dropping each panel in while the sides are locked. cut the respective edges @45. might not even have to sand it.
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 09:25 AM
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post #10 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xittenn View Post
plan was to laminate a plank, plane it down to 3/8". then bend. to get the most effective joint adhesion. cutting angled joints was a possibility, but i don't see how you'd get a good clamp. same with the y seem. in the y i'd jig the sides down and clamp the top then the bottom no problem, but how well could something like that hold. resonance is a design issue.
3/8" probably won't bend either, maybe 1/4" would do those radiuses
vacuum bagging would be crucial to get tight glue joints

i'd still try the angle blocks before spending money on planing a lot of black walnut and a vacuum system
you don't have a single radius, it looks more like a section of an oblong or parabolic
since your familiar with cad, i'd draw it up in cad to get all the angles for the blocks
for clamping, you'd need a buck to clamp a web clamp to

i've used cad to do this a few times: half round window was easy cuz all the widths and angles were the same
this kidney shaped bar with matching soffit was a challenge. 240 edge pieces of various widths and angles
well worth the effort
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 04:10 PM
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how you'd cut the intersecting panel joints is beyond me
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, bending was just a thought. i just assumed that's how it was done. i can start with a larger matchstick and mill it. i've cnc milled plenty of panels and their intersections, just never with a bend.
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post #13 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 07:31 PM
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I don't understand "matchsticks' .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by xittenn View Post
yeah, bending was just a thought. i just assumed that's how it was done. i can start with a larger matchstick and mill it. i've cnc milled plenty of panels and their intersections, just never with a bend.

Your word matchsticks does not have any application to your speakers, unless I'm missing something? The material you would be laminating would be between 3/16" and 1/8" thick by about 1" or so wide. The form would be a two piece contraption, having the expotential horn shape you need for each different face. The material would extend beyond the form for trimming later, but still long enough to be able to be clamped up. This is the process:


There is a thin plywood that you can use called "bendable or bending" plywood which would save hours of cutting thin strips, but the clamping form and process would stay the same:
https://www.plywoodcompany.com/MainS...roductList/134


https://purebondplywood.com/product/...nding-plywood/



https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...nding++plywood

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-24-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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post #14 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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as opposed to bending, because everyone said it was a bad idea. using hardwood and laminating 1" square ripped matchsticks as opposed to laminating 3" wide pieces, and forming a plank. everyone said it wouldn't bend. so i laminate the matchsticks with a flared step and use a cnc vertical mill to finish it. matchsticks are thin. it's what we called them when i was making custom hardwood doors.
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 08:55 PM
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specific dimensions?

What size are the match sticks?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #16 of 17 Old 10-24-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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1 to 2 inches square for a matchstick. i'll know my best fit when my cad drawings are done.
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post #17 of 17 Old 10-25-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
This is the process:
great video. unusual use of camera on board going thru bandsaw and jointer
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