How would you do this? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
  • 2 Post By Gary Beasley
  • 1 Post By FrankC
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 Old 01-14-2018, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
No Longer Here
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
View DNK's Photo Album My Photos
How would you do this?

The rails and stiles for the door of a reproduction OG clock will be made of fir. The image attached is measured from the original (c. 1850).

The rabbets hold glass on one side, and allow the frame to lap over the opening on the other. The top (concave) surface is veneered, and the grain of the veneer runs perpendicular to the grain of the door frame.

I figured the first part to cut is the concave surface (top). If I do that on the face of a 3/8" board (just at the edge), then I can use the table saw to make the rabbets, then cut the completed piece free. A 1/16th" veneer will give me the final dimension.

But about that cove??

My first thought was to run a piece on an angle across the table saw. But this is small, safety is a concern.
Next thought was a router, but I don't know of a bit with the right countour.
Latest thought was a Stanley 45 (I've never used mine). I would need to make a cutter for it, and the ones I have look hard to copy.
Attached Images

Last edited by DNK; 01-14-2018 at 05:00 PM.
DNK is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 4 Old 01-14-2018, 05:46 PM
Senior Sawdust Sweeper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga. USA
Posts: 1,472
View Gary Beasley's Photo Album My Photos
Running the cove on the table saw is doable if its done first before any lengths are cut out. Clamp your guides and use a pushblock or two. Get the rabbets cut after then you can cut to length.
DNK and Toolman50 like this.
Gary Beasley is offline  
post #3 of 4 Old 01-14-2018, 05:54 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 5,666
View FrankC's Photo Album My Photos
Cutting coves on a table saw is actually quite easy and safe if you do a proper set up, once you have the guides in place it may be easier to creep up on the final size than making one deeper cut. If it makes you more comfortable use a wider and thicker board and rip it to size after the cove is cut.

There are many tutorials on this and you can either buy or make the jig, simple web search will tell you all you need to know.
DNK likes this.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

FrankC is online now  
Sponsored Links
post #4 of 4 Old 01-29-2018, 04:12 PM
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 45
View cseltzjr's Photo Album My Photos
I might try and run that part on the radial arm saw. Bring the cutting head out and lock it in place outside the fence. Then rotate it part way so that you can get your 1/16" depth in the 7/8" width. Make a fence set to push the work between and you can include a hold down at each end. You would be running the part past the blade at an angle and that will allow you to get the 1/16" of depth over 7/8".
cseltzjr is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome