How should I cut this box joint? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 24 Old 07-06-2018, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
nicely done Ron!

I know where you could have got a leigh dovetail jig!! you did it a lot cheaper tho....

looking forward to the assembly pics!
Ha...You know someone that has one for sale?
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post #22 of 24 Old 07-06-2018, 01:02 PM
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Looks good. That size panel must be difficult to control.
Do those open extensions ever catch on floppy materials?
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post #23 of 24 Old 07-06-2018, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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It wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Once clamped to the backer board, even the 4' pieces were pretty solid. Solid enough that all the cuts are uniform.

I haven't had problems with the open extensions. The grid pieces are recessed a bit, so it would have to be a pretty "floppy" to catch. At least more than any piece of wood I would think you would cut.
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post #24 of 24 Old 08-01-2018, 09:01 PM
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Late to the party, there is a way to cut box joints on very long boards, if the inside of the corner is hidden such an apron for a table.

Reverse your miter gauge and make the standard back board and pin jig with the pin facing you, you will be raising the dado blade as high as possible so the end of the back board will be cut off.

The board lays flat on the saw and you push it through endways into the dado blade, fix a stop behind the miter gauge to make cuts of an even depth as you move the board from one notch to the next one. To keep the board straight the fence is moved tight to the board once the notch is on the pin.

The back of the cuts will be deeper due to the curvature of the blade but the front will fit like any other dado. If you wish you can hand finish the cuts deeper on the front for a tight joint.

This will also work for a chest that will be lined with cedar which will cover up the inside of the corner.
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Last edited by FrankC; 08-01-2018 at 09:04 PM.
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