How precise do joints need to be? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-14-2016, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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How precise do joints need to be?

As in:


Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-14-2016, 08:36 PM
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That's ... special.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-14-2016, 10:20 PM
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Apparently not that tight because the stuff I built hasn't fallen apart yet.
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwebb99 View Post
Apparently not that tight because the stuff I built hasn't fallen apart yet.
Did you cheat and use glue?

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 01:38 PM
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I don't understand how that is supposed to be used... Which way is up in that chest? Because the one side is still completely open... Did he just not quite finish it in this video?
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 01:46 PM
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I really enjoyed this video of Japanese style cabinetry.
Thanks for sharing.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremymcon View Post
I don't understand how that is supposed to be used... Which way is up in that chest? Because the one side is still completely open... Did he just not quite finish it in this video?
Correct, he didn't complete the drawer installation. Those narrow slats of wood on the inserted panels are drawer runners, so that was the face.
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 02:34 PM
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I just built a coffee table in a similar style, with the exception of attaching the top. I could not figure out a way to do that without screws. If anyone knows a method, I would be interested in your info..

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 08:29 PM
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Put gussets in the corners and use pigs/dowels between gussets and top.

George
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 09:10 PM
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You could almost hear the sound of a CNC gantry moving back and forth in the background.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-15-2016, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchymist
Did you cheat and use glue?
I can't remember. 😀
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-16-2016, 12:27 AM
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@mmwood

Looking at the coffee table you made, I think that sliding dovetails may have worked for attaching the table top. You could have extended the short rails of the skirt up over the top of the legs and created the tail. Or extend the legs. Then cut two slots in the top. Don't use glue or only use it on one end. Might look a bit awkward with the slots being exposed at the edges though. But you could have filled them with more maple. Or you could have ripped the top lengthwise, cut stopped slots, and then slide each side of the slab onto the frame and glue it back together at the saw joint.
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-16-2016, 10:27 AM
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Put gussets in the corners and use pigs/dowels between gussets and top.

George
I can see putting gussets in the corners using grooves in the aprons, but I can't envision holding a top down and in place by means of the gussets, without using either glue or hardware.
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-16-2016, 10:35 AM
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jeremymcon,

The sliding dovetail approach is possible, but I may not be skilled enough to do that. When I have made them, I have found that, wood not being perfect, there always ended up being tight spots in the middle of the slide, probably due to lack of perfect flatness. The only way I could get one to slide more than a couple of inches is to make it loose enough to the point where they were no longer tight at the joints.

The ripping and glueing was not an option because the customer wanted to have this without glue or hardware. She compromised on the screws for the top because I couldn't figure out any other way.
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-16-2016, 12:54 PM
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Pinned mortise and tenon, like all the other joints?
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-16-2016, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Pinned mortise and tenon, like all the other joints?
Hmm, interesting idea, if it had a thicker top, possibly. Although it wouldn't have been practical for this piece due to the amount of overhang in some areas. The pins would have had to be about 7"-8" long. Still, something to consider for future tests. Thanks for the reply.
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