How Do I Join Vertical Posts Like These Ones? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 22 Old 08-01-2012, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again, Everyone:

I have been mulling over cabinetman's suggestions (see post #9 above) about how to make these wood racks, and I came up with an alternate solution that probably will be harder but hopefully will be a little stronger? (as well as be a little more aesthetically pleasing and less expensive / easier to source).

Cabinetman suggested using three pieces of doug fir laminated together and then using a 1-1/4 for the vertical and a dowel joint for where the vertical connects to the base, which would be a 2 X 12 about 14 inches long..

I was thinking instead of using a 1-11/16 X 1-11/16 doug fir post (with radial edges). For the base, I would use two 1 X 12 X 14 pine boards laminated face to face to make a 2 inch thick base.

For the joint, before I glue the base boards, I would drill a hole through the face of both boards and then use a chisel to make a mortise. (maybe drill the boards before glueing, then glue them, then chisel?)

then I would slide the end of the 1-11/16 post into the mortise so that it was flush with the bottom of the base and glue it.

Maybe last part is a BAD idea? Should I only make the mortise on the bottom board 1/2 inch deep so that the end of the post will have something to glue onto the bottom of the mortise?

One more question; Would it be better to square off the radial edges of the post if I want to fit it into the mortise? Would the sqaured off edges be STRONGER or weaker for the joint?

alternatively, would it be better to cut a shouldered tenon in the bottom of the vertical post to fit into the mortise? I would imagine that would make it WEAKER because we are basically taking away material and, thus, removing area for the glue to adhere.

Thanks in advance.

As for the horizontal flag, I am thinking of using a 3/4 X 1 - 1/2 X 12 inch doug fir board like this one here

I would turn it on edge so that it was more rigid and then drill out and chisel out a mortise. I would probably then have it flush mount or extend out the back (I kind of like the look of having a pin M/t joint)

does this sound like a sturdy, workable solution?

thanks so much.
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post #22 of 22 Old 08-01-2012, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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...or maybe I should just invest in the Kreg R3 system and do pocket screws and glue to mount the post flush to the TOP of the base?
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