Hollow-jointing - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 30 Old 07-21-2012, 11:04 PM
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Somebody once said it's OK to disagree. Well, I disagree with this method of joining edges. I don't believe craftsmanship starts with creating an ill fitting joint. When the edges are jointed to fit, and the clamping pressure along its total length is fairly equal, there's no reason the ends should separate.





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post #22 of 30 Old 07-21-2012, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
did you mean table, not fence?
Ya, outfeed table.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #23 of 30 Old 07-21-2012, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
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Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm not) if you want an open in the center of the 2 joining boards you would need to lower the outfeed table not raise it. Raising the fence will make the board be convex, not concave.

It drops the far end of my table for a concave joint.

I can lift that end up for a convex joint.

Another reason for a spring joint, as I have read in some older books, was for when the panel drys out more in the winter (or whenever) the ends of each board in the panel would shrink more. A spring joint was to help make sure the panel joints would not separate due to seasonal wood movement.

This is just coming from a guy that has to oil his machines before he uses them.
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post #24 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm not) if you want an open in the center of the 2 joining boards you would need to lower the outfeed fence not raise it. Raising the fence will make the board be convex, not concave.
You are wrong.
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post #25 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 02:00 PM
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Been doing it for 20 years. Nope, I'm right.

If you raise the front (outfeed) table as you push the wood forward it will keep lifting it off the back table making a convex board.

If you lower the front (outfeed) table then the board keeps falling cutting a hollow in the board, and at the end it will leave a small snipe.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com

Last edited by Leo G; 07-22-2012 at 05:51 PM.
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post #26 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well.
Alrighty, then.
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post #27 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 03:38 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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correct me if I'm wrong...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Been doing it for 20 years. Nope, I'm right.

If you raise the front table as you push the wood forward it will keep lifting it off the back table making a convex board.

If you lower the front table then the board keeps falling cutting a hollow in the board, and at the end it will leave a small snipe.
Don't we work with the out feed table for the concave/convex issue and leave the front table for the depth of cut? That's what I've been doing for 40 years, but I could be wrong.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #28 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 05:50 PM
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I consider the front table the outfeed table and the back the infeed. The infeed table determines depth of cut and the outfeed is suppose to be perfectly in line with top dead center of the knife.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #29 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 06:17 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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no wonder then

Quote:
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Well.
Alrighty, then.
Not me. The front table is the infeed table and it's the one you stand in front where the switch is, on the front.

The rear table is the outfeed table where the work feeds out after passing over the cutterhead. That's why the older Craftsman 6" which has a fixed outfeed table, gets some scorn. I find that for every jointing process I need, a fixed outfeed is just fine, but for the "hollow or spring joints" I would use a different jointer, my Jet 6" or my Grizzly 8".

The outfeed table on my table saw is at the rear, behind the blade. The switch is on the front where I stand to feed the work in....... But I could be wrong on this and would like to hear what others say. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #30 of 30 Old 07-22-2012, 06:21 PM
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Just the way I look at it I guess. On the jointer the outfeed is in the front to me. I guess I should just say in and outfeed.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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