Good way to hide joint lines? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-15-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Good way to hide joint lines?

Hey guys I'm joining boards for a floor lamp and can't find a good way to hide my joint lines. I've tried using saw dust mixed with glue but get too many big chunks. Not sure about color matching with putty. I might stain it not sure yet though will putty absorb stain? Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-15-2011, 09:37 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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hide them?

A properly made glue joint will be almost invisible especially when the wood grain is similar. If you have gaps, then the joint is not right or square. Without a photo it's hard to tell exactly what your problem is. Got one? bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-15-2011, 09:44 PM
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Yep, what he said.

What is the edge to edge joint like before you glue it? Sawed, jointed, straight from Home Depot? The best joint will be jointed, next is sawed. Things need to be very straight and square.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-15-2011, 11:20 PM
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Obviously +1 to both above...

As for fixing your problem now, type of lumber and pictures would be a big help for us to help you.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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I'll take a pic when I get off today. The wood is sweetgum not the heartwood just the white part(whatever it's called) that I milled from the tree myself.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 05:25 PM
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Hi if you mix some pva wood glue with the saw dust from the timber and putty it in the cracks then leave it to dry and give it a really good sand it should hide the joints.
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupus View Post
The wood is sweetgum not the heartwood just the white part(whatever it's called) that I milled from the tree myself.
Sap wood
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 08:33 PM
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Lupus ,
those look to be rather raggedy joints . What did you surface the edges with before gluing them up ?
Have you surfaced those pieces after glue up ?

Last edited by Manuka Jock; 09-16-2011 at 08:36 PM.
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ha! That's my best work! I used a jointer I didn't do anything to it after gluing. Didn't know I could. What are you saying run it through the plane again? Also I can't figure out how to get an accurate dowel on the wider piece in the pic. I don't have a jig for any of it though. So I'm guessing and just screwed up pretty much my whole project because it doesn't line up. I'm about to give up on it all together nothing seems to ever go right!
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 09:17 PM
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dowels

You can add the dowels after the glue joint has cured...however a good glue joint doesn't need any additional reinforcement.
You should glue up your panels first. Flatten them by hand plane or sander, square the edges. Match color and grain direction where possible, check for gaps before gluing in a dry practice clamp up. Then join the panels into box shape, dry clamp and check again.
It's about fit, trial, fit, check, fix, check...etc.
Otherwise things won't go well as you know by now. Sharp blades, proper technique, and accurate tools mean quality work at the end.
Take your time, be patient and you be fine. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-16-2011 at 10:28 PM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-16-2011, 09:41 PM
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If possible , don't plane the boards down to the final thickness until after the glue up . Leave an extra 5mm on , for finishing up later .


Pass the timber lowly thru the jointer , to get a good smooth edge , taking very fine cuts .

Last edited by Manuka Jock; 09-17-2011 at 07:09 AM.
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-17-2011, 07:36 AM
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There's not much you can do to hide a glue line, because that's what it is. A line...hopefully very thin, that doesn't take stain well. You can improve your edge to edge match to get a very fine line, and have it more or less incorporated (lost) in the grain.

After your glue up, is the time to 'surface' the boards to flatten the entire surface to the same level. You could do it with a planer, or hand planes, but that may not leave you with a suitable surface. It will take some scraping, and most likely sanding. A ROS can work wonders if used intelligently. Or, if you want to hand sand, I like to use a large block sander.

I make up block sanders from a substrate cut to fit inside a belt sander belt. The substrate can be 5/8" or 3/4", cut to fit the belt tightly. Belt sizes vary from 3"x18" to 4"x24", in a wide variety of grits. Once fitted up, you have two sides to use. They look like these:
.









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post #15 of 15 Old 10-12-2011, 11:04 AM
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Stupid question....but did you clamp the boards together after gluing ???
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