Gluing up African Mahogany - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 25 Old 03-02-2018, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
It doesn't look like african mahogany. To me it looks like the pink sande wood I've been working with the last couple weeks. Have you been having trouble with the wood dulling your tools? Is it bad to tear out when jointing or planing? This is some of the problems I've been having with sande. It also doesn't sand very well. If you sand it against the grain with a belt sander it tends to tear out like machinery does.
I have not done any cutting or routing of it yet. Still trying to get the second top glued up. Because of the twists, not all boards are flush on top. I used biscuits in the first one, all offset from top face... but I don't want to force top flush and not have edges with full contact... so I have to try to get biscuits properly aligned to the uneven top face... if I had more depth to work with on top I would just replane and joint again... but I am going to hope the wide belt sander will remove the uneven surface.
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post #22 of 25 Old 03-02-2018, 10:43 PM
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I have used this to make my kitchen island. Also in the pic is my coffee nook made with edge grain African mahogany. The shelves above it same wood. Wife liked the face grain so thatís what we went with the island top. I have no real complaints but Todd at my local lumber yard let me know that itís very hard to get genuine mahogany which I was told is from Honduras. He even said he hasnít seen it in like ten years.
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post #23 of 25 Old 03-03-2018, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jtech1 View Post
I assume that it can't hurt to give it a few runs with a 150 grit sanding block and wipe with acetone, right? May not be necessary, but will not hurt anything, right?
Wrong. It will not help anything and there is always the possibility that you could round the edges.

George
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post #24 of 25 Old 03-03-2018, 08:49 AM
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Hi Jtech1,

First, I'm sorry that someone sold this to you...In the last few decades way too may "wood brokers" with only $$$ as motivation have gotten into the industry. I can't really help on this one as my approach would be in a completely separate direction with design, and probably no hardware or even glues for this build only joinery. So I leave it to the help your getting now, and only offer making sure you get really good glue distribution, and you might want to glue up in multiple successions...instead of all at once...watching for reaction wood appearing because of the glue up and pressure of clamping...

From just seeing pictures its hard to read the grain fully, but like so many tropical lumber now coming out of the decimated forests. This one, which I agree does look like a variety of Sande (Brosimum ssp) is actually from South America...not Africa. It appears to be one more log hacked into bolts and then milled with no regard at all to how the tree grew, by someone that probably really didn't care or understand either. Which describes many of the mills I have seen over the Southern boarders. I and those like me that have or do work down there sometimes "mill on sight" for our projects just to control the issues your seeing in this wood...

Sorry for your troubles...

j

Last edited by 35015; 03-03-2018 at 08:52 AM.
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post #25 of 25 Old 03-28-2018, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Figured I would check back and let everyone know how it is going.

First I tried the rail method to get one face flat in my planer. That was not very successful. It was difficult to get a flat surface since it was only as good as the rails were straight and strong. So, I went to the sled method. I did not have the days of time to build one of the fancy, adjustable sleds... so I simply glued two 3/4" MDF pieces, 1'x5', with a 1" stop block at one end on top of that. I did it on my workbench and made sure it was exactly flat.

Then I put one of the boards on it... found the rocking axis... put some strips of painters tape at the shim points on the sled and on the underside of the work piece... put a dab of hot glue on each tape spot on the sled... set the work piece in it at about 50% point of the rocking axis... let it set... penciled the top side all over... ran it through the planer until all pencil was gone... removed from sled... ran the other side through the planer until all pencil gone... whola! I had both faces exactly flat and in parallel planes. Then took it back to jointer and ran adjoining pieces through again together, top face to top face... and it now fits together very nicely.

Now to glue up the top and have it run through the belt sander and finally on to finishing... :)

I appreciate everyone's input here... it really helped me out of this jam.
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