Gluing dados - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-29-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Gluing dados

So I'm making a simple bookcase out of air dired pine. I made dados in the side and back panels to support the shelves but I just realized I have no idea whether to nail or glue the shelves. Should I glue the shelves to the sides and nail the back panel to the shelves and sides or would gluing them keep them from expanding properly? While I'm at it, how in the world do people join the top to the carcass? I may not have read enough but I've never been able to find a clear description of how thats done.
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-29-2011, 01:50 PM
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I glue the shelves in the dados

And then just nail on the back. Commercial cabinets glue both, but if you rabbet a recess for the back it's even stronger, but not really "necessary" in my opinion. If you move around a lot and the unit will be subject to repeated stress, then I'd also glue the back with construction adhesive. The back prevents racking/collapsing so it's critical to the structure. The shelf boards and the side have the grain running length wise so the wood movement be be similar. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 02:02 AM
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I glue the shelves as well but only about two or three inches at the center of each end. That gives the overall cabinet some rigidity but will let the wood move easily if it wants to. I always glue and brad the back panel.
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 07:22 AM
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Most production and custom cabinet shops do not glue in the backs. Reason being that the cabinet is finished without the back in place. Backs are usually rabbeted in and stapled into the step of the rabbet. A tight fitting back will help square the back of the cabinet. A deep rabbet will allow some scribe.

Kitchen cabinets with prefinished interiors can be dadoed (grooved) for the back, 1/4" or more from the back edge, and the back installed when the cabinet is assembled. Having the back locked in keeps it from being pushed out with heavy items forced into the cabinet.

As for gluing the shelves into the ends, in this case I would do it, but common practice for casework is to use some type of substrate, not solid wood for the carcass and shelving.








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post #5 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 09:36 AM
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This or you can always dovetail top and through mortise shelving.
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post #6 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAGWAH View Post
This or you can always dovetail top and through mortise shelving.
Interesting joint, do you have a quick way of making that one? At first glance I thought it was a lock miter but it's not really.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #7 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 11:01 AM
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No real easy way I'll just do some delicate table saw work practicing on some scrap till I get it right.

I learned this joint when building som white oak table legs for an old craftsman style table, it saved material and still looked solid.

What I suggest is once you make a sample with the fit you like save them for future when you have to revisit this joint on another piece. Like my lock mitre, the set up time was killer but once I got my sample pieces working I saved them and now my setup time is down to 10 minutes.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Got it, thank you. Just for my info does air dried pine move more than air dried hardwoods like oak?
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-30-2011, 05:09 PM
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I've never given much worry to pine. At least to date over the last 40 years I haven't had to worry all that much with either in a shelf situation. JMHO
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-13-2011, 12:18 PM
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Pine generally changes dimension less than oak.
From green to oven dry: ( the 1st number in tangential and the 2nd radial)
Eastern white pine 6.1/2.1
Western white pine 7.4/4.1. Vs.
Red oak. 8.9/4.2
Souther red oak. 11.3/4.
This is from Bruce Hoadley's book. Understanding Wood. A must have/read for woodworkers.
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