Glue up counter top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-23-2018, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Glue up counter top

I am gluing up a top for my base cabs next to fireplace. It is 6/4 African Mahogany. I am going to use double biscuits along the length (5') to help align boards. I can get my garage up to 62 and keep it there for the 24 hours the glue needs to set. I have TBII, TBIII and TBII Extend. I don't want to use TBIII since this top will be stained and I don't want to risk dark glue lines at joints. I was going to use Extend, but in looking at the specs, the chalk temp is 60 for extend... which is cutting it close. I am thinking I am better off gluing and clamping one joint at a time with regular TB II which is only 55 deg... with a 5' long top and probably 4-5 joints and double biscuits along each, I think doing it all at once with TBII regular will be tough... I'd appreciate any recommendations.
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post #2 of 7 Old 01-23-2018, 07:41 PM
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I've done wide, multi board, glue ups in the past, just not 5' long. I've also done long glue ups made up of three parts totaling 17" wide. In both cases I used biscuits (#20s) and TBII. I prefer to not do the glue up with multiple joins and do one joint at a time. I know, it takes longer, but I prefer it for easier control of the clamping and handling squeeze out. My clamps are 3/4" Pony clamps, so things can get heavy with a long work piece. I would think that a single row of biscuits should suffice. Back in the early days of biscuitry, folks were havig some issues with "shadowing" from puttîng the bisxuits too close to the surface. The biscuits and surrounding wood expand from the moisture in the glue and you have football shaped areas on the surface. I you sand the surface before the moisture leaves the wood, you can end up with football shaped depressions.

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Last edited by Jim Frye; 01-23-2018 at 08:28 PM. Reason: added blather
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-23-2018, 08:14 PM
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You are better off gluing all of it at once. Gluing one joint at a time the joint will either get uneven or crooked.

For what you are doing any carpenters glue would work. You are correct though to stay within the temperature range of the product you are using. Wood glue can go south if it's one degree below what they recommend. Where it would normally dry to a plastic when too cold it turns to powder and doesn't work.

As far as the glue stain, when ever you make a glue up it would be a good idea to wash the excess off with a wet rag. Still after you glue up the counter top it would need a lot of sanding which should take care of the glue stain.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-24-2018, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice!

Am I going overboard with the double biscuits (above and below each other) every 1ft? Will it cause me any difficulties in assembling it quickly after glued?
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-24-2018, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtech1 View Post
Thanks for the advice!

Am I going overboard with the double biscuits (above and below each other) every 1ft? Will it cause me any difficulties in assembling it quickly after glued?
For what you are doing I would skip the biscuits altogether. It's true they will add a little strength to the joint but only a little strength. You should have enough surface area the joint should stay together forever.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-24-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtech1 View Post
Thanks for the advice!

Am I going overboard with the double biscuits (above and below each other) every 1ft? Will it cause me any difficulties in assembling it quickly after glued?
The only difficulties I see are the added time to insert the biscuits into the glued joint and if any of the biscuits have taken on any moisture since manufacture that has caused them to swell enough to make them difficult to insert in the slots. Steve is correct that the width of the glue joint should be strong enough for the application. I like the biscuits for help aligning long joints during the glue up process. I recently did a cabinet top using eight pieces of 6/4 stock and used a single row of biscuits about 6" apart for each join. Probably a bit too close, but I had a lot of old #20s on hand. This top has a fairly heavy static load on it, so the biscuits will prevent any possible glue creep in the future.

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Last edited by Jim Frye; 01-24-2018 at 09:25 AM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-24-2018, 10:01 AM
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The fewer the better .....

If you want to use biscuits, keep them to a single row and space them 18" apart. You must dry fit them first, but not all the way in. This is to insure the top surface will be level across, checking with a straight edge.

The problem with biscuits is the cutting of the slots which must be at the same level from the top down! I place the boards upside down on a flat bench, my assembly table. I don't use the fence that came with the jointer, but use the entire base of the machine which is much larger. This allows for more accurate registration from the assembly table surface. This is the critical part. If the slots aren't at the same height all the way across, the boards will NOT assemble. Some folks attribute the assembly issue to different widths of biscuits, but if they are all out of the same box/lot that shouldn't be the case.

Here's 2 projects I did for a buddy:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/bi...t-buddy-48967/

I found that not using the fence was indeed a preferred method after receiving criticism from a long standing member. He hates them, and probably hadn't used my method, Oh Well, it did work just fine.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-24-2018 at 10:06 AM.
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