The best solution is a long bed jointer. I shared one with a roommate a long time ago, and they are a joy to use, but they take up a lot of space.
Right now, I have a planer, but no jointer. I am restoring some hand planes, but my hand plane skills are not good enough yet. Eventually I will finish restoring the jointer plane and make a shooting board for it.
In the meantime, I use the table saw. The other day, I had a bunch of boards with irregular edges that needed to be jointed. I used a board with a straight reference edge and a lot of thin double-stick tape. Here is what I do:
* Find a thin, flat reference board with a straight "reference" edge. This means that the top and bottom are flat and parallel, the straight edge is perfectly straight, and the straight edge is perpendicular to the top and bottom. The reference board should be at least as wide as the board to be jointed.
* Arrange the board so that the reference edge is against the table saw fence.
* Apply thin double-stick tape to the top of the reference board, next to the non-reference edge away from the fence. Use sufficient tape so that the board to be jointed cannot be lifted by the blade in a kickback.
* Stick the board to be jointed to the top of the reference board, so that the edge of the board to be jointed protrudes slightly beyond the edge of the reference board. Minimize the overhang.
* Adjust the table saw fence to trim the very edge of the board to be jointed using a rip cut.
* Make the rip cut to joint the edge. Use push blocks to press firmly on the two boards as you make the cut.
* Carefully remove the board from the reference board. This won't be easy if you did a good job of taping the boards together. Be patient and let the tape "ease" loose slowly. Avoid the temptation of marring the boards by prying with heavy tools. A wide but skinny, non-marring scrapwood "wedge" may help.
* This is a dangerous cut. Maybe too dangerous. The board to be jointed can separate and a kickback can easily occur. I am very generous with the tape, and press firmly with push blocks as I make the cut.
* The board to be jointed must be parallel to the reference board. Be sure that the tape levels the board to be jointed. You can tip the board to be jointed at a slight angle if you use small pieces of tape. You do not want that to happen.
* When stacked, the reference board and the board to be jointed cannot be higher than the table saw blade can cut.
* Because the board to be jointed overhangs the reference board, there may be unwanted tearout. You can avoid this issue by trimming the reference board with the board to be jointed, but then you loose a small piece of the reference board with each cut. It is a tradeoff.
* The sharper the blade, the cleaner the cut. Use a new or freshly sharpened blade for the best results. A sharp blade may minimize tearout, too.
* If you get saw marks, you can remove them with a very light sanding. I would use a sanding block. I would also pinch and align the edge of the board between two straight scrap boards before sanding, to keep the edge of your board straight and square.
'Hope this helps.